Here's the part numbers as I ordered them in summer 2009.

Came as a kit: 5M64-8591-AB
Pump: 5M64-8C419-BB

I didn't remove the splash guards. It would be easier up on jack stands. Don't forget venting of the transaxle cooler/

 

Just an update, after cooling down overnight the FEH started right up, but I couldn't hear the MECS pump running at all. Killed the ICE, got underneath, lightly tapped on the pump with a ball pein hammer and it immediately began running again. Drove about ten miles today and all was as normal, although the pump obviously has to be replaced. MeT stayed at 10F above ambient, which is normal. But if you get stuck somewhere with this problem, it's worth banging on the pump to possibly restart it and get home. Pretty easy to reach from the front without much effort once you know where it is.

 

I did the pump replacement today and thought I would add some comments that might help someone:

1. Entire job took two hours at a leisurely pace including cleanup.
2. Highly recommend putting the FEH up on front ramps.
3. Highly recommend removing the plastic splash shield (5x10mm & 1xplastic pin). The plastic pin is back by the right wheel.
4. I bought a fresh open top drain pan to capture the coolant, and about 1/2 gallon will drain from pump hoses. Open the coolant tank cap to speed this up.
5. The factory hose clamps are a pain, you may want to plan ahead and replace them with screw type hose clamps. I didn't.
6. I filtered the captured coolant through a clean rag and reused it. No venting of the transaxle was necessary, just added it back to the coolant tank with the MECS pump running. Coolant level is exactly where it was when I started.
7. The pump kit contains a "Double C-Clip" and a length of split "Convoluted Tubing". The tubing was already in place on my '07 and I didn't see a need for the C-Clip so I didn't use these parts. They maybe necessary on earlier model years.

 

I'm at 50K and using my original pump on my 2007. My plan is to tap it and get it working well enough to get home if it stops.

If the pump stops and you tap it, how long will it run? I know there is no exact answer - just trying to get an anecdotal range.

 

Well, I tapped mine on 8/28, I could hear it begin running again, and I used it for daily local driving through 9/4, so that's eight days. However, I knew it had stopped once so I didn't venture far from home or on the highway, and I monitored MeT closely. If I was you at 50k I'd order the pump now from Silver State to at least have it available. Then go ahead and replace it if the old one gets noisy. Mine got pretty loud before it failed.

The new pump looks like a $15 part from Home Depot that might be used in a backyard water fountain. Certainly doesn't look like what it costs.

I would swear that the old pump used to run in the "accessory" position of the key, but the new one does not. I must have been mistaken.

 

Ramps & removing the fairing? Yeah!

I did mine without those and, yeah you can do it... but econoline is right.

 

I just registered to be able to comment on this topic. I googled "stop safely now" and found this forum. It has been very helpful and has saved me money by not going to the stealership. I have had the same problem as everyone else; shutting down on the interstate with no acceleration. Personally I think there should be a recall on the original MEC pump. I installed my new MEC pump 9 Sep and so far, so good. I hesitated ordering and replacing the pump, because I was unsure if it would be the fix. After reading multiple online forums and the TSB (technical service bulletin) I felt more confident in my decision. Good luck to everyone out there with the "stop safely now" message. I'm glad I changed my MEC pump.

 

Here's another reason not to have the dealership replace this pump. This is the actual conversation when I called the dealer for a quote:

ME: "Good morning. Can I get a quote for replacing the Motor Electronics Pump on an '07 Escape Hybrid?"

MIKE (service writer): "There's no such part on that vehicle".

ME: "I have the Ford Workshop Manual in front of me. That's what it's called. Do you need the page number or the part number?"

MIKE: "We won't replace any parts without diagnosing the problem first, figure at least an hour". Don't even know if we have that part in stock. You'd need to check with the parts department".

ME: "Okay, thanks". End of Call


Keep in mind that the diagnosis here consists of hitting the pump with a hammer to see if it resumes running. Gotta love the dealerships.

 

There's a reason I split for the shop manuals and do my own work. This is a gross example but a good one.

You ought to call the service manager and recount the conversation. This guy should have told you that he was unfamiliar with the hybrid and he'd get some help. Instead he relied on you being ignorant. And the service manager ought to know that. If he doesn't care then that dealer is not only a no go for repairs, you should never buy from them. That's an attitude that brings overpricing.

 

+1. I'm stunned to read what people have paid for a simple blend door or ABS tone ring replacement. I think it cost me about $30 to do both, myself.