Knowing that the difference between D and L is purely software, not physical, I've just started to taking to alternating often. When I'm driving, I'm in D, and I do a little boost and coast at times. When I need to slow down, even in the slightest, I'm back in L. I've started this week, and I think there may be a definate benefit. I suppose this would be a more advanced technique, as it requires knowledge and some concentration to constantly shift between D and L. (I know some of us can be rather lazy at times.)

 

This is pretty much the mode I've taken to as well.

 

I have been using L almost all the time (except empty highways which are rare here) for at least 5 or 6 months. I have gotten pretty good at decelerating without the brakes at all.

What I have found is that when I am decelerating in L, any slight amount of pressure on the gas pedal will keep it out of the heavy regeneration that really slows the car down. In other words, if I need to slow for a stop, I take my foot off the pedal. If I am just slowing for traffic some, I just ease back on the pedal and if behaves just as if it were in D.

My gas mileage is definitely better using this technique, plus I can stay off the brakes except for the last few feet of a stop in most cases. Even in this colder weather I was still in the 35+ mpg on the tank (almost 400 miles) when I dropped it off Tuesday for the new bumper.

Been driving a rented Yukon for the last few days - averaging a whopping 16.2 on the tank (I gotta admit I like some of the gadgets and bells and whistles on it though).

 

Ray (Nitramjr), everything in your post is correct for the reasons you stated. Pravus Prime and you were the first ones to come up with using "L" (LOW GEAR). Now it seems Rich (Pravus Prime) and stevewa are stating that using "L" and "D" (DRIVE) combined give you better MPG. To me, you give up extra MPG by not using "D" for coasting at idle. I use coasting in "D" almost every minute of my driving in the city as well as the highway. If your getting 35mpg just driving in "L", you could be getting 40mpg combining "D" for coasting.

Remember my post of how I go from ICE off at 40mph in "L" and shift to "D" before the tach drops to get a no drag coast. This method has increased my MPG so much its not funny. Yes, its a little work but its also as fun as driving my old four speed '67 Shelby GT500 with 5 times the gas mileage!

For me, coasting is only second to EV mode which I coast almost as much in.

Gary

 

OK I am new to this forum (long time owner of FHE) and have read most of the treads on 'Low Gear Advantage' but for the life of me I can't see - nor had happen - what is alluded to many times of using L, let up of the accelerator at < 40 mph and the cycle turns to EV. Am I reading something wrong or is there something I am missing. Also I have somewhere heard about using the brakes (double pump?) to force the car into EV.

If anyone can - and from reading all the post there are plenty out there that can - please pass along these - probably OLD - hints and suggestions to some of us who are new these post and want to glean a little from the past.

Most of my driving is short distance, always seems that when I have to stop at a light it is on a uphill start. I try and stay in EV as much as possible but most of the time the light holds just a little to long and the battery goes low and the ICE has to kick in to recharge.

Thanks - Phillip in Georgia

 

Wow, you nailed it, and made me sound so cool!

Anyway, yeah, I've been battling to get 35 MPG to a tank (4WD, keep in mind) and always come up just short (34.7,34.6, etc.) and since I know it doesn't cause any damage, and I swear I get better MPGs in D on the expressway and with the CC (Crusie Control) on than in L, I'd been shifting about anyway (for getting on and off the expressways). Now, using that same technique, I can get a longer and easier coast in D once I'm up to speed than compared to minute pressure on the pedal in L. Plus I get to shift around, which is still pretty cool for me. I find that in my subdivision, in D, I can get all the way from about a quarter of the way into the entrance to my garage without using any electricity. In L, I've got to keep a slow and steady supply going, so I even save on the juice.

The downside to doing it is that you shift around a lot, which may make passengers question what you're doing and why. (It's an eCVT right? Why are you shifting? To get that extra .3 MPG!) It's hard to tell, since the weathers been getting colder and windier just how big (if any) the difference is. I may give it up, and return to surface streets = L, but for now, I'm trying it out.

 

Phillip, welcome to Greenhybrid.com. Sorry for the confusion and I try to make it easier for you and others that should always just ask if you don't understand what we are talking about.

1. "The Low Gear Advantage" is a combination of benifits which will greatly improve MPG and save your brake pads to boot. Shifting to "L" (low gear) with no gas pedal presure electrictronicly activates the generator using the turning wheels as energy. This can be done at any speed because there is no real gear change and therefore can't cause any damage. The generator slows the FEH (Ford Escape Hybrid) while charging the battery just like the regenerative brakes. This method uses only the generator and not the brake pads or rotors to slow the FEH down. If you need more braking, press the brake pedal. In addition, once your speed goes below 40mph in "L", the ICE (internal combustion engine) or gas engine can shut off if the following conditions are met: The ICE is warm enough, Max A/C and defrost are off and there are no other computer issues preventing a shut off of the ICE. As the computer starts to shut down the ICE, the Tach will bounce before the needle drops to zero RPM's. You have two choices when this happens: 1. continue to slow down while charging the battery in "L". 2. Shift back to "D" (drive) and coast in EV (electric vehicle) or electric drive till you get to a speed you can maintain in EV with the gas pedal (0-35mph). Don't touch the gas pedal till you get to a EV speed. If you have the energy screen on the navigation computer, you can monitor the battery level. I use "L" to keep the battery as full as posible because I try to drive in EV when ever I can and you save gas the less the ICE has to charge the battery.

2. Tapping the brake pedal lightly twice at speeds under 40mph will have the same effect as above to shut off the ICE if all the same conditions are met, ie warm ICE, no Max A/C etc. No gas pedal till you get to EV speed (0-35MPH)

If you are still not clear Phillip or anyone else for that matter, let me know.

Gary

 

Rich (Pravus Prime), it is you and Ray that brought this trick out, Ford would have never thought the "LOW GEAR ADVANTAGE" would be used to increase MPG like it has. Both of you are so... cool and I can't thank you enough. I'm tring to pay you men back for changing my FEH from a 40mpg vehicle to a 44 mpg + vehicle. There are many reading this post that don't believe this is posible, but it is. Now that I don't have to run the Max A/C in the city here in South Florida, I expect my trips will yield 55-70mpg in my FEH due to running in EV and getting the extra charge from the "L" when slowing and cruise control preset at 35mph to keep me crusing in EV.

I cannot speak for the AWD FEH that you have but if your close to 35mpg my hat is off to you. I have ask questions about the AWD but no one answers so I can compare and make suggestions for hypermiling. I need to know what a AWD can set max speed in cruise control till the battery gives out on a flat road. I can compare that to the FWD and help. I can go 35mph till the battery gives out and the ICE starts. Thats my max. and I have no secrets how I get there. I will share everything I know to help others.

Gary

 

Gary, there's very little difference between the 4WD and FWD except some extra weight. Speeds and gearing are identical. So, I can cruise at 35 in EV mode too (and have done so), but I probably won't get quite as far as you due to the heavier vehicle. Of course if the two vehicles hit the same hill at the same speed, the 4WD is more likely to kick on the engine to maintain speed as it needs more power to get over the hill.

 

Are you calling my car chubby?

Anyway, with a charged battery and a level road, I have no idea, I don't think there are any level slow moving roads in the state. I'm sure my milage would be much better if it weren't for my particular commute. Two 80 mile round trip commutes every week, less than four miles of which are on surface streets, the rest are expressway, which I CC at 65, but still, it generally can "level" my tank out.

Thanks for the high compliment Gary. With that and xcels recent compliment on the other thread, I'm blushing.