Summary:
1. The air was blowing cool, not cold for a while. Then not really cool at all after 80 degrees outside.
2. I read that you need the AC in these cars to keep the Hybrid battery cool.
3. Bought an A/C Pro DIY Kit. The gauge went all the way to "High" during the test so I didn't put any in.
4. Had my HVAC company relieve the pressure back to Green (35psi) on the gauge.
5. That seemed to just empty the system because now there is no cool air at all and sounds like it's empty through the vents. If that makes sense.
6. Took to the shop. They emptied it and refilled it. Readings were Low Side: 67.1 / High Side: 163 Temp at vent: 74.3
7. Paid them to change out the TXP or expansion valve.
8. They gave me the new numbers of Low Side: 50 / High Side: 180 / Temp at Vent: 52.
9. The first set of numbers were printed. The second set of numbers was handwritten. Which makes me suspicious.
10. $300 later and I have my car back blowing "cool" air. I don't believe it to be 20 degrees colder as it feels the same.
11. They suggest I change out the AC dryer next but that process is twice the price.

What should I do next? What would you do next? Thanks for any help.

 

i guess this is feh - what year and how many miles?
when i have been in this situation (working on a friend's ac) - i was informed that the compressor needs to
be replaced.
was it high on the low side or high on the high side?

 

2008 FEH 110,000 Miles.

High on the Low Side and Low on the High Side.

 

so the clutch did engage the compressor and if the car is not moving,
the radiator fans are suppose to come on;
when i did one of those for a friend (added freon) it did not
fix the problem and someone told him that the compressor needed to
be changed (along with the usual components)
i did not do the job

 

Ok you really need to be servicing the system with a real manifold gauge set. The 08 system is very conventional with a belt driven compressor and "2 zone a/c" for the passenger compartment and the rear battery. It runs r134a and on a normalish day so 80 ambient, low side should read in the 40s and high side around 225. This should give you an evap temp of around 45-50 degrees. The only way to really know correct charge is to evacuate all refrigerant, pull a vacuum, then weigh in the new charge according to the underhood label for amount of charge. Now, with the 08 compressor on the FEH, there is a possibility of a stuck scroll control valve. Symptoms of this are: when the dash switch is set to max, and tems set to lowest setting [60 degrees], the air is cool but not cold; however, when you drive at highway speed, the air is markedly cooler but returns to just kind of cool at idle this may be your issue. Put a gauge set on it and if charge is correct [see weigh in above] but the low side reads high and the high side reads low, you can pretty much bet that the valve is the culprit. At that point you can either replace the compressor [$$$] or purchase the scroll control valve for less that $20 and replace it [problem is, the valve is installed in the back of the compressor held in by a plate secured by two bolts. You must evacuate the system prior to replacement. You then have to vacuum the system down and weigh a charge back in.

 

Thank you for the detailed reply. Is the Scroll valve different than the TXP (expansion valve) that I already replaced? Link? Thanks again!

 

Yes.
Here is link to the actual part. Again, it is installed in the compressor.

You can search youtube for scroll valve replacement for Ford cars

 

thanks os much - i think i have the same problem
will check this evening;

http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/arc.../t-191521.html

 

have been doing some research on this;
actually there is an easier fix to this that (May) work;
you can try to just add some pag-oil and that will provide what
is needed for the valve to work properly;
so someone wrote that you take the freon out and add the oil and
someone responded that you do not even need to remove the freon (r134a)
(since that is a hassle for the average home mechanic) - So just
add some PAG oil that is recommended for the vehicle you are working on.
what i am reading is 250 ml of PAG oil.
Anyone with a response?

 

But don't you need a vacuum or pump of some sort to get that into the lines? I don't have any of that unfortunately