Thanks Lolder and FjordHybrid. I did see the end of the article with the pinched wire in the HV battery. I would have taken that as a strong potential lead on the 1st battery as it had screws still missing on the cover, giving the impression it might have been removed. But the same symptoms exist with all 3 batteries and I know the last two HV batteries have not been taken apart.

Lolder are you surprised with the ability of the boost jump start? I sure am.

 

The pinched wire in the article was not in the HVB. It was one of the small wires on the connector under the rear seat on the passenger side. But, if all three batteries do the same thing, then it is not a problem with the batteries. You prolly have either a bad crash switch or fuel pump or something else wrong with the engine or transaxle.

 

FjordHybrid, I haven't been able to see the complete article you sent a link to, including any pics at the end about the pinch and where it was at. Hence my confusion about in the battery versus outside in the rear compartment.

We did have the mechanic with a Snap-On with a Solus Pro scanner over on Thursday. The good news is that his scanner did obtain 3 codes I couldn't see with my two scanners:

P0A0A - HV System Interlock Circuit

P1A14 - Hybrid Powertrain Control Module - Transmission disabled

P0581 - Related to the Cruise Control being out at the upper limit

I doubt the last one is related to the HV battery issue but thought it worth mentioning as sometimes certain specific issues affect and trigger more than 1 code.

The bad news is the first two codes are not really a surprise and are not specific enough to pinpoint the problem that is casuing these codes.

Does anyone know more about these codes and have any ideas what/where to check?

So far I have done and know the following:

12 volt battery is fully charged and only 3 months old
HV battery has 332 volts DC
SOC still says 0.0%
2nd Inspection of orange cable still doesn't appear to show any damage inside or underneath the car
Rear Inertia switch has been checked and even replaced with the one from the other SUV
Front Inertia switch has been check but not yet replaced. I will do so tonight.
Wrench light and triangle lights are on
Dash message board says "stop safely now"
Opening any door or causing any circuit for a light etc to come on triggers the car to do its brakes and P/S preparation cycle
Turning key on causes the dash to light up and other things like the wrech and triangle light, radio and center screen to turn on, but no action at all to try and start the engine

Other possible Issues that could cause the interlock to not be satisified:

Chip in ignition Key not right or missing. A possiblliy but the mechanic didn't think it would do as much as it does at the dash if it was the wrong chip or no chip in the key

Shifter switch confirming park and/or neutral. I did have to rehook up the cable to the tranny when reinstalled but it seems to be adjusted right and I did move it around to see if it changed the status

Relay in HV battery for interlock and/or low capacity level - Could be bad but why and why in all three batteries? Kind of doubtful that this is the problem.

Even though the orange cabling and connectors with High voltage wiring and interlock wiring look good, it could still be damaged and probably needs to be checked out more robustly at this stage. I am not the one that took the blown engine and ECVT tranny out of the car. Perhaps the previous guy forgot to unhook the HV connector from the ECVT or elsewhere and it got pulled hard. I can tell you that there is evidence they originally tried to pull the engine out from the top. It will come out that way and has to come out from the bottom of the car.

So I am focusing on the front inertia switch and anything that could affect satisifying the interlock system. Anybody know what all those items could be? Also anyone know how to do a continuity check or pin test of this harness and its accessories?

Thanks!

 

After being an aficionado of hybrids for over six years since I bought my 2010 FFH, I have read many articles on them and unfortunately not bookmarked very many. I do recall some time back that all of these components have individual digital identities. Each transmission, each HVB has a different digital ID. They all communicate their presence and their condition to each other over several common data communication buses. As I recall, when a major part is changed, proprietary Ford software instructions are required to be input to the system to introduce new components to each other. I don't think an interactive scan tool can do it. I think it was partially to prevent chop shops from dealing in these major components like transmissions and HVBs.
I may be wrong in this recollection but nobody else has come on this thread to challenge or correct that view.

 

Hi Lolder. Yes I am keeping in mind your comment about digital compatability. I do believe the function is to deter theft. I am told that it is a reset function that can fix that and it didn't sound like you needed Ford only to do it. Having said that, no computers have changed with this project, with the exception of the current battery control module in the hybrid battery. However the problem also existed when I still had the original battery in the SUV with no difference in symptoms. So I do not think that this is the issue. Plus I think the code would be a different code, referring to theft or mismatch. And the descriptions I have read of what can cause the codes I got make no mention of digital compatability being a potential issue. However I am keeping it in the back of my mind as a low probability of being the issue. If I have the guy over with the Solus Pro scanner again, I am going to ask him to do the reset anyway, as it can't hurt to address all potential sources for the issue. I find it interesting that one of the codes we got is related to the eCVT and says "transmission disabled". Thinking outside of the box, when we bought the 2nd SUV with the lown motor missing, the ECVT was also outside of the SUV. This is not uncommon as it is generally the parctice to remove both together. However what if they kept the original eCVT and the eCVT next to the SUV was from a different SUV hybrid Escape? Again low probability but who knows. I am expecting the Pinpoint test approach to be most valuable. Has anybody done this? What kind of meter is needed? Just volts and continuity or ??????

 

Keeping it in mind is my intent and we all wish you luck. These cars are much closer to computers than they are to cars. Ford knows that but their dealers are behind the curve.

 

You need to have the Ford diagnosis manual and schematic book. I think you might have a simple problem of the contactors not getting 12V for whatever reason. I have a 2008 diagnosis manual and the P0A0A code seems pretty easy to figure out.

 

The Eagle Has Landed!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I was all set to start the pinpoint test in the shop manual on Friday. But I still had the front inertia switch to try replacing. I checked the car before the work and no changes, 0.0% SOC. I changed the Inertia switch with the one coincidently from the crashed Escape. I didn't find anything wrong with either, using a continuity tester to check across the leads. They both have had the reset button pushed several times in the past. I will say that this switch did respond differently than the rear switch when tapping with a rubber mallet to cause it to trip. It wouldn't trip like the rear did, which invites the question is it really reset? Also not sure it would be tripped?

In any case all that was done was I replaced the front inertia switch and voila, the "Stop safely now" message, wrenchlight, and red triangle were no longer displayed on the dash. I turned the key to start and the engine started immediatly! I mean immediately. What a pleasant shock! All the codes including the cruise control are gone. A new code has appeared which is P2004 and is related to the IMRC, which I had replaced. My guess is the vacuum line is unhooked or they are installed on the wrong ends of the IMRC.

The battery had a charge in the low 40% range and quickly goes to higher low 40's and turns off the engine. Voltage was quickly up to the 350's from the initial 330's.

Thanks everyone for your help and guidance. I think I am all set. I will monitor for a while for any questions folks may have.

 

WOW !! Congratulations !

 

Shockingly positive outcome. Does this mean you have spare parts/batteries now?