HV battery charged, car won't start, engine won't turn
#1
HV battery charged, car won't start, engine won't turn
Got a 09 ESCAPE Hybrid from auction. Charged the battery but it won't start. It won't even turn the engine. All the lights are on. There was a battery disabled DTC in the history. Cleared all DTC then start hear the relay sound once from HV battery then no more action. No new DTC code. What could be wrong?
#4
Re: HV battery charged, car won't start, engine won't turn
Scanned with Ford IDS and found code P0A27 (Hybrid Battery Pack Relay Feedback Circuit). Does it mean a failed Hybrid Battery Cut Off Switch disabled the battery?
Last edited by accent2010; 11-20-2018 at 08:43 PM.
#5
Re: HV battery charged, car won't start, engine won't turn
Replaced the HV battery but still the same issue: car won't start, engine doesn't turn....all the lights are on except the red lock. Scanned with IDS found no error except the P0A27. Tested cables, fuses and relays but found no issue. programmed a new key then tried to start, still the same issue. What could be wrong? bad PCM?
#6
Re: HV battery charged, car won't start, engine won't turn
I bet this problem solving can be confusing because the 2009-12 Escape hybrid has a different battery pack and charging system than the 2005-08. As I recall while the earlier models had 330V packs, later models had a larger 2.5l ICE but a somewhat smaller 300V (the system was shared with the Fusion hybrid) battery pack.
#7
Re: HV battery charged, car won't start, engine won't turn
Not sure what you mean. 2005-2012 FEH batteries are listed as 330V NiMH (I do believe they have different P/N and electronics from 2010-2012). 2005-2009 are the same battery.
2012 FFH is only 275V NiMH and later years went with Lithium.
2012 FFH is only 275V NiMH and later years went with Lithium.
#8
Re: HV battery charged, car won't start, engine won't turn
The 2008 model was rated at 155 net hp while 2009 and later were 177hp. I’m assuming the battery configuration was changed in some ways with the newer powetrain. By the time the 2009s were built, the FEH had been in production about 5 calendar years. It would seem unusual that the same HV battery was used for all FEHs. I’m sure battery rebuilders have better info.
#9
Re: HV battery charged, car won't start, engine won't turn
I bet this problem solving can be confusing because the 2009-12 Escape hybrid has a different battery pack and charging system than the 2005-08. As I recall while the earlier models had 330V packs, later models had a larger 2.5l ICE but a somewhat smaller 300V (the system was shared with the Fusion hybrid) battery pack.
#10
Re: HV battery charged, car won't start, engine won't turn
Voltage isn't particularly reliable. NiMH cells that have sat for a long time can go "dormant" where the chemistry is extremely sluggish. My 2005 is currently suffering from this. I can charge the battery to 330+ via the jump starter, but the moment it spins the ICE, the voltage plummets to < 250V.
Logging the HV battery data with Forscan during the start process may give you some insight. If you see the battery voltage plummet during the power-own process, that may be the case.
While this doesn't sound like your case, since the ICE isn't spinning, it's worth ensuring you input enough charge. How many mAh did you input into it? When manually charging a known-discharged battery, I recommend a minimum of 1400mAh input. with a maximum of 2800mAh input unless you have the battery open with forced air through the pack. If one can provide adequate cooling, best to charge a known depleted battery to 8800mAh input at < 500mA.
Did you properly torque the relay bolts that attach the relay to the main leads? Did you properly torque the 10mm head bolts necessary to remove the relay? If you leave these bolts too loose, the car will sense the IR change and can either error out or cause other issues after start.
IMHO, it's worth cracking the battery back open and double-checking everything.
Logging the HV battery data with Forscan during the start process may give you some insight. If you see the battery voltage plummet during the power-own process, that may be the case.
While this doesn't sound like your case, since the ICE isn't spinning, it's worth ensuring you input enough charge. How many mAh did you input into it? When manually charging a known-discharged battery, I recommend a minimum of 1400mAh input. with a maximum of 2800mAh input unless you have the battery open with forced air through the pack. If one can provide adequate cooling, best to charge a known depleted battery to 8800mAh input at < 500mA.
Did you properly torque the relay bolts that attach the relay to the main leads? Did you properly torque the 10mm head bolts necessary to remove the relay? If you leave these bolts too loose, the car will sense the IR change and can either error out or cause other issues after start.
IMHO, it's worth cracking the battery back open and double-checking everything.