I'm 99.7% sure I need a new HV batt; SOC dips to a flat 20.0% every few days; sometimes during the day (say after work)

So I ordered a used one from LKQ; shold be here next week. Reading the shop manual it really looks like plug n play.

I don't have a hoist, not sure I want to buy one just for this 1 job, but it's only $130 at harbor freight if need be.

Any suggestion, tips, advise before I get started? Any way to lift it out w/o a hoist?

 

Two people can do it relatively easily. It's not as heavy as it is bulky.

If you're limited to one man, then you might be able to shimmy it out onto a cart so that you're never lifting more than half of it at a time.

Did you get a 2007 or older?

 

thanks, I read about only having a 6mm clearance, so not sure how 2 people could do it.
I will try it tho.

I did get an 07. So it should have the jump start that I have in my 08. Could have got a 09, but I think something's different.

If it's dead, it should jump start from the 12v to get things started right?

 

Yes, two people can do it easily. One in front and one in back to start it out. Once it's nearly out, one person on each side.

'07 should have the jump starter.

I wouldn't even try to start it without completing two jump cycles. Make sure the 12V is fully charged and put a 10A charger on it.

I recently acquired a 2005 with 180K on it that has been sitting for over a year. It has LOTS of other problems, but after two consecutive jump start cycles, it fired up.

 

Thanks for the tips;
Got the 'new' batt today. Took maybe 45min-hr to do the whole thing, w/o a hoist.

So far the new one's doing ok. Passed the BCM test in Forscan. It had 30% Soc when I plugged it in; so I tried & it fired up!
Test drove it, I got a 1.25-1.5 mile stretch out of the batt from a stand still stop! last wee I was lucky to get .5mi!

Hopefully this FB pdf file links (to big to attach)

https://lookaside.fbsbx.com/file/esc...or3JkLy6zcb6m-


V Batt R&R
I suppose in today's world I need to add this first.
DANGER, HIGH VOLTAGE, DISCOUNT THE HV FUSE. WEAR HV GLOVES. HV CAN KILL.
Tools needed:
5/16" socket
10mm socket
1/2" socket,
screwdriver
hoist?
Remove carpet, then AC Vent; I think they were 10mm, and that stupid plastic screw thingy.
Remove the 10 - 1/2" bolts that hold the battery down, 2 under the black AC vent. They go through the body to the outside. I don't have a rust problem in OK, but other locations may?
Mine all broke loose with a 3/8 socket wrench by hand.
There's a 10mm bolt holding the Wire harness on.
Remove the 3 wiring harnesses, again use caution.
Now the fun part, I didn't have a hoist, to cheap to rent/buy one. So with my teen, we used crow bars to gently lift it and slide blocks of wood under until we got the holding nubs lifted out of the sides (where you see the blue webbing, they point to the ground.
We then pushed it from the inside until we could lift it out. (I left the 2 mini crowbars lying from the bumper to under the battery to make a makeshift ramp.
Install was pretty easy, we lifted it, got it 1/2 way in, and before we knew it it slid into place! [glad no fingers were in the way!] Reconnected the wiring, put in the HV fuse, hit the key & at 30.2% it stated the car!
Put all the nuts & bolts back in & did the test drive.
So far so good!

 

I did have these DTC codes when I started up & connected Forscan. I hope they were just erreros from the donor batt; I have cleared them; drove around the bock (country block = 4mi) and it scan's clean now.

P1A10-FF
P0A1F-20
P0A8D-20
B1342-20

 

Good Job! Glad to hear it!

The hazard for shock potential is dramatically over-stated. They made it outright difficult to actually shock yourself even with the cover off. It's the most conservative design I've seen.

The only real danger is from the other end of the cables - capacitors and such in the inverter. Once the main lead is disconnected, that danger goes away.

The battery itself is relay isolated from the main terminals, and the safety switch only opens or closes a circuit at the half-pack location - there is no voltage between those two terminals... ever.

The '05 I mentioned above is behaving very much like your old battery - SoC bleeds off very quickly when parked. I have a lot of other crap to sort out first (runs like crap, exhaust leak, SSN error, P0054, etc.), but once I get everything but the battery sorted out, I'll probably attempt to recondition the battery via a high voltage charger and manual discharge to very low levels. If it works, I'll document the process, so you can use it on your old battery and have a working spare.

And ****... Forscan is a nice tool. Things just got a lot easier for me. it works with the XHorse MiniVCI cable I use with Toyota stuff.

Again, nice work!

 

Now the curiosity in me wants to get to the cells & just see if one (or more) is lower than the rest.
I need to find me a video as I took out several bolts, and the black plastic case isn't budging.

 

Unlikely. I have seen it commonly on the sanyo cells with age and heat on them, they can fail in this manner with almost every cell suffering from excessive SD. Full range cycles can help improve and even correct them.

You can check 4 out of 5 of the cells on the top half of the pack by piercing the shrink wrap with your voltmeter. This should give you a good idea of what's going on.

 

Just updating a month later.
So far so good. Btm is cooling off nicely, SOC stays between 50-55 most of the time I look at it.
Mpg still isn't great, but I did put regular Michelin ltxs on last year after the lrr tires all wore out early.