Just finished putting 500 miles on my 2008 FWD FEH.

Gas pump receipt appears to show 31 mpg in mixed driving.

I have a new Scanguage II installed. I am displaying SOC, FWT, TPS, and MPG.

My main question at this point concerns the inability to stay in EV mode with any acceleration. For example, I can stay in EV mode only when the TPS is at the idle level of 12. Whenever I put any pressure on the acclerator pedal that would move the TPS above 12, the ICE starts.

My FEH can eventually get to about 40 mph on level ground without any significant pedal pressure. However, I am surprised that apparently Ford is not allowing any level of accelerator response in EV mode. Is that expected?

 

Welcome! I have about 7k so far on my 08. I haven't set my SCIIx to monitor TPS, maybe I should. But I know what you mean. Sometime it seems like you just touch the gas pedal and it comes out of EV, I have been plesently suprised a few times how hard it can be pressed and stay EV. It doesn't seem equal. I know, to me anyways, any slight incline and EV stops, at least from a dead stop. There's one place on my drive home from work, it's 1 mile almost down hill, probably 50-100' drove overall, except there is about a 2-3' incline at the start of the hill (over 100' length). IF I can carress over the 'hump' I can procede to 40mph downhill all in EV.

So a short answer is, I have pretty much the same expierence. Sometimes I feel like like there's a mercury switch that sences any slight incline! or a pressure switch that sences more than 1/16" pedal movement!

 

There is a fairly long list of parameters that feed the decision-making software as to whether to go EV/notEV mode. I think most of them are covered in the FAQ.

One parameter with a strong influence is the SOC -- I notice that I can stay in EV mode much longer if it is charged above 60%. It wants to bleed off the charge to 53%.

Also, from GPSMAN's (John)s report, the ICE will come on if you pull more than about 50A from the battery. That works out to about 22HP.

I have seen several reports about this behavior changing during/after the break-in period, where it stays EV longer. You haven't reached this point yet. I currently have about 1300 miles, and it does seem to me that I get more EV time than I used to, but I can't tell if that's the car changing or me changing.

 

2008 FEH FWD and 1200 miles. Same situation here on using EV. It is a challenge to see how long you can keep it in EV. I do pretty good till about 25 miles per hour, then it gets very difficult. SOC doesn't seem to make much of a difference on mine, EV off at 40%, on at anything above that. That is when all EV requirements are met. I'm hoping that with more miles it will become easier to control.
I charge it up in a hurry in Low and with a light brake when I leave the house.

 

I have had my FEH since Thanksgiving and just put 4600 miles on it this week. I have just started noticing that I am staying EV for a little more pedal travel. It is like an switch got thrown. I am able to take off at a light with inline with normal traffic without actually jumping straight into ICE.

I can only wait to see what the truck will do next for me. My only gripe has been with my dealer as they have yet to transfer my Florida tag after 37 days and the promise from the dealership at the behest of the Customer Service center to give me the new 6P Nav software.

 

TPS is Throttle Position Sensor and is for the gas engine throttle only.

It has nothing to do with EV mode, or how far the gas pedal is actually pressed down. There is a pedal position sensor I'm sure, but I'm not sure how to display it on the SG.

The amps you pull out of the battery determines ( mostly ) when the ICE is going to kick on. You get the most amps when the battery is about 85'F. You get much less when the car & battery is cold. -John

 

GPSman1 said:

"The amps you pull out of the battery determines ( mostly ) when the ICE is going to kick on. You get the most amps when the battery is about 85'F. You get much less when the car & battery is cold. -John"

OK - I've tried displaying MxC and MxD on the Scan Gauge II. Neither seemed to tell me when it was about to trigger ICE. What am I missing or not understanding? Should I rely on the traction battery temp instead?

 

Pedal Position xgauge:

TXD: 2209D4
RXF: 0462850906D4
RXD: 3008
MTH: 000500010000
NAM: PDL

Should display 0 with no pedal pressure, 100 if floored.

 

I tell you, you guys rock! Geeks like me can come in here, and find just about anything we need because someone else has done all the hard work of figuring it out for us! Thanks!

I'm just waiting for the computer hackers out there to tell us how to get into the cars computer software to "tweak" some settings, like create a HV button like the higlander comercial, how to stop the ice from comming on 100' from home, etc etc

 

Try this one:
Current from TCM:
TXD: 07E122496E
RXF: 04628549066E
RXD: 3010
MTH: 027102000000
NAM: AMP

You need to watch AMP and not exceed about 50 amps to stay in EV.
I say about, because in warm weather you can exceed 50 amps in EV, but in cold, you may only get about 40 amps.
I can't give an exact value on this, but it's a good guide to start with.

Note: You get small positive numbers from 0 to ~75 amps when drawing power out... you get large postive numbers when putting amps in.

Amps in = 1445 - value on display. If you get 1400 on the display, you are putting 45 amps in. This is due to the fact that the raw data is in hexidecimal 2's complement format, and the math conversion does not do negative numbers easily.

Just remember a small number = actual value out ( discharge )
A large number is 1445 - xxxx = actual value in ( charge )