Hi all,

First time posting. I have scoured this site and the threads about this braking issue, but have just found so many different solutions that people have tried - not sure which one to tackle.

Ford Escape Hybrid 2010

Issue:

• ABS/Check Brake System light comes on sporadically.
• Noticing it happen more on hotter days, and when I run the AC (read that other people found this too).
• No noticeable braking issues when it happens, have just heard the engine or AC system sometimes work in overdrive.
• Happens more often with time.
• No codes except old/cleared codes - P1A1B-00 / U3003-16 / C1018-00 / C1015-64

Resolutions I have found:

• Tone rings
• Brake fluid flush
• Vacuum pump connector (three-way) - I think this might be most likely due to the old codes and the heat/AC connection I have been noticing.

Can someone who had similar experiences with this issue let me know what worked for them? I don't want to keep pushing money into things that aren't the issue.

Thanks!

 

Welcome to the forum of fellow empathic sufferers. I think you are hearing the vacuum assist pump trying to supply vacuum while the engine is off and the AC (which is also electric) is on but there is a leak somewhere and so it is trying mightily but not getting the proverbial rock sucked up the hill.

On the 2010, there is an electric vacuum pump that supplies vacuum assist to the system when the car is in EV mode and the engine is off (for obvious reasons). Begin with hypothesis #3: Vacuum pump connector/system. Make sure it's OK and the other lines are OK. Hope it's not the pump itself.

Watch the vid, inspect, report back, good luck!

 

Check the 12v battery too. One of those codes says it's too low. One code is that the ABS module lost it's memory. Then that the vacuum pump didn't start so force engine running. And it only happens under high load on the 14v system. In the '10 does the a/c run off the traction battery or the lead acid?

 

On the '10 the A/C compressor power comes from HVTB and I believe it plugs into the transaxle at the DC/DC converter. Orange cables. $1500 new, $450 refurb.

The vacuum assist pump for the brakes is 12V AFAIK. FTM load tests the circuit to test the wiring but he doesn't consider that maybe the battery is dying. So you are correct, if the 12V battery is awful, that could be part of the problem.

 

Thank you both!

I will definitely look at the vacuum pump/lines first as well as the battery and will report back with my findings!

 

Hey guys,

Took the car to a mechanic who has seen my car a few times. Had them focus on the vacuum system:

What they found/quoted me:

The brake booster was using the vacuum pump because it was not working right - now both the pump and the booster need to be replaced.

Brake Booster w/ pin (mentioned how ford requires this now) - $751
Vacuum Pump - $441

As you guys might be able to tell with my description, I have limited knowledge of these systems and how to replace them. Would appreciate any advice in terms of this looking like the right way to go/pricing seems fair.

Thank you in advance,

Guy who slightly regrets buying this car.

 

Do those prices include the labor and a guarantee? Were they 100% sure it wasn't the lines, the check valves, the sensors, or the battery?

 

AlexK,

They include a guarantee but not labor - labor for that all is around $350. All parts ordered from Ford.

The battery is good, lines are good - check valve is not good, and is included in the Brake booster price.

Thoughts?

Thank you so much,

Dylan

 

I would replace the check valve myself - it's very easy to get to as the video shows. It sounds like maybe you're being rooked and rogered roundly. Pull the valve and "T" system, buy a new one and put it in there. FTM says the check valve and T system are "about $85 my cost" so I'll see if I can find the part number.

 

You can listen for the pump turn on in electric mode or turn it on with forscan. I honestly don't know how this would break the booster. Usually it would be the pump, valve or HCU that fails. Worst case master cylinder too. But the booster I've only seen replaced when they rusted through.