Brake Ren Failure & Erradic RPM for no reason
One other situation I didn't include in the original post happened this morning when I delivered the FEH to the dealer. Drove 15 minutes across town, vehicle was completely warmed up, but the ICU continued to run at 1600 RPM in park when I stopped at the dealership.
Will try to run down the battery, but the ICU hasn't been shutting down to do so. Will try double tapping the brake as others suggested to see if I can force it off. Hadn't heard that trick before today.
I've seem to remember glossing over posts here on GH that discuss ICE and temperatures where it wont/will shut down.
One other thing...this may be too obvious....but if you have your defroster on, then the ICE will never shut off. Likewise for "MAX AC". But since you're in cold weather, check your defroster.
You state that you're in under 40 degree weather. If I may:
First, I assume you mean 19-20 MPG not MPH, which is still quite low.
You don't have the Nav system, and you're in cold weather. Depending on how cold the battery is, you may have limited recharge due to being in SOC II, which is cold battery. In that state, you're not going to be able to give much charge to or get much power from the HV Battery, due to it being cold, not the engine. This takes far longer to warm up than the ICE. In that situation, you'll find that L gear is pretty much useless, as it keeps causing the ICE to come on due to it being unable to accept as much charge as slowing with L gear generates, which in turn makes the ICE spin to bleed off that now excess charge. In fact, it can take up to half an hour or more to get the battery warmed to "standard" mode, depending on just how cold it is.
In SOC II, you won't get much assist from the battery when the battery is cold. (You'll note that in the Winter that the start up from a light will nearly always cause the ICE to come on, rather than being able to EV up to 10 MPH or so as during the warmer months.) The erratic RPM doesn't make sense unless you're in L trying to recharge, in which case it would look erratic, as the battery keeps refusing the charge due to it being cold, and dumping the rest into the engine in bursts.
Again, normal in the SOC II mode if you're in L going down a steep hill.
This is odd. Is this after several minutes of idle off? If that's the case, then it's that the ICE components have gotten cold and the ICE is on to rewarm them to keep both modes at optimum, and to prevent damage.
This may be a redundant question, but are you sure you're not using a Red? (Defroster perhaps)
Outside of the last "symptom", especially if you've been storing your FEH outside in 0-40 degree temps, it doesn't seem that odd really. I park in a garage, and week before last, had to drive in 17 degree weather after days of non-use. It took about 10 minutes to be able to go ICE off, but about 25 minutes before I could use L gear without forcing the ICE on, and to be able to really use the HV Battery.
You don't have the Nav system, and you're in cold weather. Depending on how cold the battery is, you may have limited recharge due to being in SOC II, which is cold battery. In that state, you're not going to be able to give much charge to or get much power from the HV Battery, due to it being cold, not the engine. This takes far longer to warm up than the ICE. In that situation, you'll find that L gear is pretty much useless, as it keeps causing the ICE to come on due to it being unable to accept as much charge as slowing with L gear generates, which in turn makes the ICE spin to bleed off that now excess charge. In fact, it can take up to half an hour or more to get the battery warmed to "standard" mode, depending on just how cold it is.
2nd symptom - gas engine RPM is now erradic, sometimes suddenly jumping to 2600 RPM driving downhill in Drive, engine warmed up. And the battery isn't getting charged during the high RPM. Due to poor regeneration, we aren't always getting electric motor boost and the gas engine is working overtime to charge during warmup.
3rd symptom - coasting downhill in 2nd for better regen. works for about a block, then the gas engine RPM begins to dramitically increase. Watched it go to 5000 one day before returning to Drive. This all going down a steep two block residential street at 25 MPH.
4th symptom - Gas engine sometimes idles at 1600 in Park even though completely warm. No, it isn't charging the battery.
This may be a redundant question, but are you sure you're not using a Red? (Defroster perhaps)
FEH is at the dealer today, but there are no error codes and their scratching their heads. Computer control has obviously lost it, but the techs. don't see it. Anyone out there experience anything similar?
I live in a very cold winter climate. Below 20'F my FEH does idle at about 1350 to 1600 RPM, at stoplights, or yes, even in park.
A few times, down at about -15'F my FEH was at 2000 RPM when stopped at a stoplight. I called FORD about this behavior last winter, and their reply was "this is not part of the design intent". However, since I ONLY see this in very, very cold conditions, and it does not do it at all in temps above about 20'F, I do not consider any repair necessary, or even possible... and feel the shop might mess up something else trying to "fix" something that isn't broken!
You do not get much regen when the battery is below freezing. You car sounds just like mine when in about 20 degress or less. I doubt there is anything wrong.
-John
A few times, down at about -15'F my FEH was at 2000 RPM when stopped at a stoplight. I called FORD about this behavior last winter, and their reply was "this is not part of the design intent". However, since I ONLY see this in very, very cold conditions, and it does not do it at all in temps above about 20'F, I do not consider any repair necessary, or even possible... and feel the shop might mess up something else trying to "fix" something that isn't broken!
You do not get much regen when the battery is below freezing. You car sounds just like mine when in about 20 degress or less. I doubt there is anything wrong.
-John
The dealer mechanics consulting with Ford Factory Techs performed complete multipoint diagnostics several times at my insistance and found everything working properly. They concluded the battery was going through a conditioning cycle. Looks like the behavior I was experiencing was a combination of the conditioning and the cold weather.
This was a good learning experience for the dealership as well as me. The mechanics have received extensive training but not had vary many real world hands on experiences.
The session with the dealership also gave me assurance that I will be able to obtain quality service for this new technology, should the next problem be REAL.
I thank all who offered input.
This was a good learning experience for the dealership as well as me. The mechanics have received extensive training but not had vary many real world hands on experiences.
The session with the dealership also gave me assurance that I will be able to obtain quality service for this new technology, should the next problem be REAL.
I thank all who offered input.
Ford has a patent that discribes disabling most of the regeneration aspects if the OAT is hovering around or below freezing. Don't know if this applies to you Ford but maybe...
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