So I just took everything out that was in my trunk (I keep a lot of gear in there) and just physically seeing it in front of me made it seem a lot less intimidating. I charged my 12V battery back up to around 12.9V. I checked the HV battery’s voltage and it was anywhere between 204-235. It’s weird that whenever I first put the key into the start position or when I reset the codes and go back into the dashboard it always goes back to lower 200’s and then climbs back up into the 225-235 range. Not sure if it’s supposed to act that way.

So as mentioned in a previous post, I started ordering all the parts. I’m trying to order ring terminals because I’m going to keep them in permanently with an XT connector so if I ever need to recharge it I can just plug it in. The Youtube video from BL Automotives made that look extremely convenient for future use, so I don’t have to open everything up. Do you know what terminal size fits the relay positive and negative connector things?

 

If you are putting in 5 amps and your battery is pulling 8 amps, you are losing the battle. Your charger has to be able to keep up with the draw. I don't know what it is, but I bet it's between 5 and 10 amps.

Diodes are nothing more than one-way valves for current. If you have a DC simple circuit with electrons flowing from the negative to positive side of the source, you can insert a diode anywhere in that circuit. Depending on which way it's pointed, it will either allow or impede the flow.

 

It does close contacts when you put the key on. Service plug is the orange thing, yes.

 

Ok. So I built the tool. I didn't include diodes because i couldn't find the part and the Youtube video I saw the guy didn't have diodes on his. I connected it and tested it with the ammeter and it's reading at 430.6 volts. Is that what it's supposed to read?

I used XT60 clips so I can connect and disconnect it. Let me know. Thanks.

 

Okay, I have to stop you before you make a mistake. I indicated diodes were needed for a reason. Just because you didn't see it on YouTube doesn't mean it's not important.

First, it's protective. The presence of a diode in the harness removes the risk of shock at the harness connection. With no diode, full battery voltage is available at the connection. It is a lethal shock risk now. Presence of a diode allows for all connections to be made/disconnected with no exposure to high voltage. Lack of a diode means you must energize the charger before connecting thus having lethal high voltage risk from then charger as well.

Second, use without diodes may destroy the power supply. The power supply is designed to power resistive loads (LEDs). It is not designed to be connected to a high voltage source and have a battery "push" back at it. The installation of a diode removes any concern. Juice will not flow in the reverse direction.

If you insist on using it that way, you MUST charge as follows:

1. SAFETY PLUG OUT
2. ENERGIZE CHARGER
3. CONFIRM PEAK VOLTAGE AT OUTPUT.
4. CONNECT XT60
5. ENGAGE SAFETY PLUG

The above ensures the power supply is the HIGHER voltage when the connection is made.

When terminating the charge:

1. SAFETY PLUG OUT
2. DE-ENERGIZE CHARGER
3. DISCONNECT XT60
4. ENSURE HARNESS XT60 IS STOWED TO PREVENT RISK OF SHOCK
5. SAFETY PLUG IN

The above ensure the connection is broken before the charger is turned off thus preventing damage from the battery sending current to the charger.

As you can see on the power supply OUTPUT, the max voltage is 430V, which is what you read when the power supply is energized, but there is no load applied.

Please don't die.

 

I screwed up pretty bad. I took everything apart, got my cable connected to the relay but completely forgot to take photos of all the different bolts/screws and can't remember exactly how to reassemble it.


I can't get this part to slide in and I'm not sure what's keeping it out. I've been trying to figure this one part out for over an hour. Smh.

I knew I shouldn't have tried this man. Now I'm all flustered and seeing these pieces I don't even remember where they're from.

 

UPDATE: So I’m calling it for the night. So after spending 6-7 hours in total today (from building the charger to removing the side panels inside the car to disassembling the HV battery to attaching my ring terminal to XT-60 cable to attempting to try to reassemble and failing), I’m absolutely drained.

I’m going to get back on the horse first thing tomorrow, but instead of trying to reassemble everything, I’m going to just attempt to charge the HV battery and see if I can get the voltage up. Then I’ll worry about reassembling later… It’s going to be a huge headache.

And @S Keith I owe you an apology for the irritation I projected at you for repeatedly asking me if the HV battery was ever replaced. After opening up the HV battery, that jump starter pack is not in there. The strange part is that I know for a fact the HV battery button lit up in the past and that was part of the troubleshooting I had to do to get my car started when the 12V battery had died prior to this issue. So why did it use to light up if there is no jump start pack? This isn’t my first go around with having issues with the battery even after I replaced it and I was able to make it work using that button while jumping the car. I’m more confused than ever, thinking back at all that.

 

Thanks for the apology. Part of the rub between us is that I need as much information as possible to reliably assist you, and you would either provide selective information and/or ignore my inquiries. As this situation demonstrates, little can be taken for granted as "known," and I've seen too much weird **** with these cars to take much for granted.

The only reason the jump start button worked is because you had a jump starter in the vehicle at one point. As you can see, there is nothing on the inside of the battery connecting to the second smaller exterior plug. The light is illuminated by that circuit. 12V power is supplied to the jump starter by the large "data" plug, and the push button activates the starter. Solid or flashing light is communicated back to the button by the jump starter.

I'm personally aware of garages/salvage yards "stealing" batteries by substituting one that works, but it isn't as primo as the one in the car. I've personally done it on a totaled Prius after getting permission from the insurance company - 29K mile Prius - totaled. They said I could take the battery as long as I replaced it with one that worked. That's what I did. Drove up in another Prius and just did a swap.

The bolt head I can see immediately behind the jump start cavity shows evidence of heavy wear by power tools or sloppy hand tools. On packs that have never been removed, those bolt heads are typically pristine or nearly so.

Your plan to attempt charge prior to reassembly is perfectly acceptable. You don't even need to replace the black shroud on top of the relay, which makes voltage measurements MUCH easier - just be careful.

Exercise extreme caution when tightening bolts. The two 10mm bolts that sandwich the relay blades into the orange slots are bushed with ceramic insulator - very easy to crack. 60 in-lb torque is recommended. The two small 8mm screws that attach the front of the relay to the main connector AND the screws securing your charge leads to the relay need to be torqued to 48 in-lb. Failure to properly tighten any of those connections will potentially adversely impact battery operation, and over-tightening them runs the risk of major damage to the connections. When charging with the cover off, you merely need to get the 10mm "wrist snug" and don't need to install the 8mm at all. If you hear cracking while tightening the 10mm, stop. A little damage is fine, but you don't want to decimate them.

Once you've established the battery voltage is increasing, set a 4 hour timer on your phone, secure access to prevent anyone accidentally injuring themselves (lock and close doors, windows cracked open) and just walk the hell away. Once you have charged for 4 hours, the battery will be at about 16% SoC and is more than sufficient to start the car.

Note that on more than one occasion, I have opted to leave the black plastic off the top of the relay for convenience. Once installed, the bottom half is secured in place. The only risk is if the battery gets crushed and pushes through the insulation to the cover. If this happens, it's likely the least of one's concerns because the rest of the car is likely in a crusher.

 

I’m a grown adult. I can take accountability and admit when I was wrong. I haven’t tried charging it yet - got caught up taking care of a bunch of other errands throughout the day. Thinking of heading out in a little bit and trying to get the charge started. I already connected the ECM cables but I need to reattach this little dongle thing (I don’t know how to describe it) that connects to the relay from the outlet where you plug in that giant orange cable on the passenger side of the car that I presume is what delivers power to the rest of the vehicle from the HV battery. So all I need connected is ECM and relay to get the battery charged with that circular safety **** (again — don’t know the technical terms for any of this), correct?

I already knew the order to do it in because the guy in the video did it the way you listed it but I just want to make sure if have the necessary cables/wires attached. And thanks again for the info.

 

Was unavailable Sat/Sun. Unfortunately, I can't confirm anything on the basis of your description.

I don't know the video to which you're referring, so I don't know its contents, or what you already know. I provide information on best/needed practices as well as an explanation of why it was important. Diodes are insanely cheap, prolific and provide multiple safety benefits to both hardware and personnel. Given the significance of the risk, I would be negligent if I assumed you already knew the information.