That's a good idea. I'll drive it for a month, do a manual MPG calculation, and see how it does. It drives just fine. I'll report back at the end of March.

 

I did not say it doesn't have a mechanism for water temps. It calculates the temperature based on the CWT. If there were a water temperature sensor, I'm sure the SGII would read it.

If anyone has a shop manual that indicates a water sensor, please feel free to step in any time...

 

Does the FEH Atkinson ICE have a traditional water pump? That
being buried behind the timing chain at the front of the engine?
I've not heard anyone reporting any problem with such a thing.
Tradition Otto engines have them and they are always something
that goes bad at the worst of times.

 

How about looking for evidence of mounting bracketry for either a starter or an alternator? The FEH motor would have neither.

Without looking at an I4 Escape (in person or a shop manual) I wouldn't know where or how they mount. Just know that the FEH doesn't have them

 

I think, I think they way it's done is the dealer would buy
what's called a "box engine" or "short block". It comes on
a wooden palate. Accessories like alternators and starter
motors would not be included. To me it's just such an
easy error to make. Somebody told the parts manager
to get a Duratech I 4 for an Escape and that's what
he/she got. As mentioned here the only difference is
the cam. It will be really interesting to see how this
all plays out.

 

There are so many changes during the factory assembly the parts person has to go my your VIN in order to find a parts match. Most likely a Atkinson long block which included the heads and cams was ordered as a perfect match. The blown Atkinson long block was sent back to the re-manufacturer or a core charge of at least $250 would have been added to the bill. A Parts Manager would never order a long block without it matching your VIN.

GaryG

 

After looking at the pictures of that block, I don't think there's any core value other than recycling price for a hunk of aluminium.

 

WMManess: the way I track fuel is I get the print out receipt from the gas pump & write the odo number on it. Then put this info into a spreadsheet & have the s/s calculate the mpg. Thus I have a long term s/s set of numbers telling me the health of my engine.

Done this for 432,000 miles on my Suburban & 254,000 miles on my Mustang... Gives me a good idea of what's up inside the engine.

 

Regarding the temperature sensing mechanism issue:
you have entirely missed the point.

One of the crankshaft bearings is "far away" from any kind of temp sensing mechanism and just wouldn't give any warning of impending failure. Similarly the failure mechanism is fast and would happen so quickly that any warning would be just recounting history.

So even if the warning light came on in the instrument cluster it wouldn't have served any useful purpose since the damage would have been done.

Of course my use of "far away" above is in a relative sense.

 

I keep mine in a spreadsheet - on my phone. While I fill up the tank, I fill in the basic information. Then when the pump shuts off all I have to do is fill in the gallons and the mileage before I drive off.