Hello everybody!

First post on here, so let me just say that I am extremely grateful to know that there's a community like this where people help others, and I hope that someday, somehow, I may return the favor.

I have a 2008 FEH with 205,011 miles. I let my dad use it for a few months and there were a few stretches where he didn't use it for days. He'd turn it on for roughly 10 minutes, but not drive it. While i was still using

it, I noticed that the car was barely taking off from a complete stop. At the same time, I noticed that the hybrid battery (HB) wasn't charging when I was braking, or at idle. After about 20 minutes of driving, everything started working as usual. Fast forward to the last month: I changed some suspension parts and when I went to turn the car on to take it for a test drive, the SSN message comes up, the car wont crank AT ALL, and the CEL is flashing for a few seconds.

Using Forscan, these are the codes that came up:





At this point, something (forscan) was telling me that my 12V might be bad lol. Voltage on the HB was in the 280s. I brought my 12V back to Sams Club who wouldn't replace it because "its not bad", so they recharged it and sent me on my way. I hooked up the 12V AND took jumper cables and hooked up the 12V to a running car, just to be safe. With the my 12V hooked up the to jumper cables to a running car, I pressed the "jump start switch" and let it do its thing. I did 3 or 4 cycles with the jump start switch and I only got up to 324, which theoretically, SHOULD have been enough juice to jump start the HB. Now, after scrolling through forums, I think the reason for the no-start is because my BSOC is at 0..


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At least a lot of the codes that showed up the first time around were all gone. These are the ones that were still up after I cleared them:



===TCM DTC P0A0A-FF===
Code: P0A0A - High Voltage System Inter-lock Circuit



===PCM DTC P1000-FF===
Code: P1000 - On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) Systems Readiness Test Not Complete



===PCM DTC P1A10-FF===
Code: P1A10 - Hybrid Powertrain Control Module - Battery Disabled


===PCM DTC P1A14-FF===
Code: P1A14 - Hybrid Powertrain Control Module - Transmission Disabled



===BCM DTC B2172-60===
Code: B2172 - Inertia Switch Input Circuit Open

Status:
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC


===IC DTC U2511-60===
Code: U2511 - CAN communication bus fault

Status:
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC



Along with these, i ran a test on the BCM and I got the following:

P0A81- Hybrid Battery Pack Cooling Fan Control Circuit (did not show up in the DTC list)
P0A96- Hybrid Battery Pack Cooling Fan 2 Control Circuit (did not show up in the DTC list)
B2172- Inertia Switch Input Circuit Open (showed up in DTC list)

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I then shorted the battery cables, with little effect (with the exception of a few new codes):



===TCM DTC P0A0A-FF===
Code: P0A0A - High Voltage System Inter-lock Circuit


***NEW*** ===PCM DTC P0685-FF===
Code: P0685 - ECM/PCM Power Relay Control Circuit/Open

===PCM DTC P1000-FF===
Code: P1000 - On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) Systems Readiness Test Not Complete

===PCM DTC P1A10-FF===
Code: P1A10 - Hybrid Powertrain Control Module - Battery Disabled

===PCM DTC P1A14-FF===
Code: P1A14 - Hybrid Powertrain Control Module - Transmission Disabled

===BCM DTC B2172-60===
Code: B2172 - Inertia Switch Input Circuit Open


===IC DTC U2511-20===
Code: U2511 - CAN communication bus fault

Status:
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Instrument Cluster

***NEW*** ===IC DTC U2023-60===
Code: U2023 - Fault Received from External Node

Status:
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Instrument Cluster

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Fault Received from External Node

This DTC may be caused by :

Short circuit on the CAN line.

Open circuit on the CAN line.

There is a time out between two modules on the CAN bus

There is Interference on the CAN bus

There may be other modules on the CAN communication data line that are not communicating and are timing out.

***NEW*** ==ACM DTC U0193-20===
Code: U0193 - Lost Communication With Digital Audio Control Module A

Status:
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

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I want to BURN this thing to the ground. Where should I start tackling this thing? Take out the battery and charge the cells like some mention in other posts? There are NO burnt fuses (that I was able to see). I'll try uploading a video of what I'm seeing when I go to turn it over.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

 

0% SoC will not prevent start. Battery voltage of 324V after 3 jumps is more than sufficient; however, there are additional reasons for no-start.

Use the Table tab and display all BCM values. DEL_MOD_V is a critical value, and there are other "state" values that may indicate the battery is bad.

Resolve the B2172. The inertial switch will prevent start - basically, the car thinks it's been in an accident and is disabled due to an "impact" that triggers the switch open.

Worth considering:

https://www.motorcraftservice.com/Purchase/ViewProduct

72 hour access to ALL Ford service data and by VIN if you choose. $26.34

From a reference I found:

"NOTE: The IFS switch is located on the RH kick panel and the High Voltage Cut Off Switch is located near the RH rear tail lamp behind the jack"

It's probably the latter.

When trying to resolve non-start issues:

Clear codes.
When forscan prompts you to cycle ignition on and off, WAIT 15 SECONDS BETWEEN OFF AND ON.

 

Thank you sir, I was not aware of such a switch. The car was hit in a parking lot in the passenger quarter panel, but that happened over 3 months ago. It started right up minutes later and drive fine for quite some time. But I guess it's possible that the switch was stuck? And maybe finally engaged..somehow..

I'll check pull those values you mentioned and go looking for the switch. Thank you again! I'll get back with hopefully some good news.

 

The hybrid has two. The one in the back is specific to disabling the HV battery.

The described location of the impact is in the location of the switch.

The switches can occasionally be finicky. It might be that the impact wasn't enough to trigger the switch, but subsequent driving and vibrations/jostling might have tripped it

It could also be random.

It could also be a failed switch.

It could also be the wiring to the switch (impact pinched wires, wires rubbed through).

 

Hey Keith,

Thank you so much, the rear inertia switch was indeed the reason for the no start. I have two other issues that I'm having with it, that I'd like to fix before I try to sell it.

1) few years ago I installed a remote start. It worked for a while but from the get go i noticed that if I wanted to use my key to start it, I had to turn the key really hard and hold it for a while. Fast forward to this year, when I removed that remote start, with the hopes that the issue would go away..it didnt. Is it possible that the starter is at fault?

2) when the AC is on, only the front blower works. When I select different vent locations with the AC on, there air continues to come from the front only, and audible clicks can be heard coming from under the dash. That made me think that it could be the actuator, but then when I put the heat on I was able to select different vent modes. If I select the AC mode after the heat I'm able to select different locations for the blower. How can it be the AC actuator if it works when selecting heat first?

 

1) bad ignition lock module. Very common on this and other ford models. By forcing the key deeper into the ignition switch (pushing straight in, not twisting), you can usually gain better function.


2) Likely a blend door actuator failure. This happens from time to time on the Gen2 prius. There is one that actuates between fresh and recirculation, heat and cold blending and then the Selector, i.e., floor, vents, defrost or combo of them. Often the first noticed is that you have no heat. This is what happened with my daughter's car.

I would presume the FEH has a similar setup and might experience a similar failure. Worth checking if it can transition between recirc/fresh and if you can get heat.