Hey Experts!

I have a 2006 Ford Escape Hybrid 4WD with just over 166k miles.

Recently, the car vibrates at 15mph upon accelerating. It only does this when accelerating, not if I hold the car speed at 15mph.

Car has new tires, new alignment, and both have been checked by two different shops. Mechanic today said U-Joint looks solid, axles look good, all motor mounts intact. Nothing seems loose.

Mechanic is baffled, the best he can describe it as is a clutch shudder. Only problem is the vehicle has no clutch.

Any ideas?

 

I would suspect CV joints.

 

So did the mechanic, he checked them out, said they look fine.

 

Oh, but you DO have a clutch...

The electromagnetically actuated clutch mounted in the front of the rear diff'l case. Remove the fuse that powers that rear drive engagement clutch and see if that reduces the vibration.

The rear drive clutch is only engaged, normally, under acceleration below ~20MPH. It is also engaged in tight low speed turns and/or accelerating low speed turning.

depending on the level/rate of acceleration, 15 MPH just might be the "time" the clutch is being disengaged.

166,000 miles is a lot for ANY clutch.

Also, have your mechanic check the condition of the PTO lubricant. Overheating and failing PTO's have been problematic for the FEH.

Oh, also make darn sure the properly inflated tire circumference is roughly the same, +/- 2-3%, all around.

 

Genius!

Thank you wwest, I am headed out to find out which fuse to pull, and I am going to check it right now :-)

Update: Any idea on which fuse it is?

Is it the Transaxle Control Module? Or should I be pulling the ones for the 4x4?

 

If there is a fuse unique to the rear clutch that would be the one I would pull.

Most certainly NOT for the transaxle control module.

 

Well, the vibration got worse and took the FEH back into the shop. The mechanic now believes it is the Center Support Bearing, which when on the rack, vibrates upon acceleration, and then smooths out when at higher speed.

He called around to try to find only the bearing, and was not able to. The replacement would be an entire driveshaft, and he estimates the job at $932.00.

Does this diagnosis sound reasonable to the minds here?

 

no.

 

New U-joint, with new U-joint bearings should be readily available at any aftermarket parts shop.

 

Just no?

I am assuming you are still thinking it is the rear clutch?