I was riding along in my 09 TCH and the check engine light came on. Anyone know what code P0000 means or where I could look it up and find out. I know I can find out if I take it to the dealer but I wonder if I should make a special trip or if this can wait till the next oil change.

 

http://www.google.com/search?sourcei...=UTF-8&q=P0000

 

Check your gas cap and make sure it's tight.

Just a thought.

 

P0000 is not a legit code. How did you pull that code? With a reader of some sort?

 

Ok P0000 is not a legit code. I have a scanguage connected to my car and this is where I got the code. Car runs fine so I cleared the code. No problem until this morning and then the same thing driving to work. Just driving along about 30 mph and check engine appears again. Checked the code with the scanguage again and this time the code is P1234. Car still runs fine. Was just wondering if anyone else is having these problems and if this is a sign of things to come.

 

P1234 is not a legit code either. Take your car to someone who has a GOOD scanner and have them read the code. There are a LOT of things that will still let your car run fine that can destroy some very expensive parts unless the problem is corrected.

The problem could also be as simple as a loose gas cap. Without the REAL MIL code the car is throwing, you will not find out and someone on this board cannot help you.

Edit: Don't just go ahead and "clear" the code. It helps the tech who will eventually work on your car figure out what is wrong. They can then use a lab scope for front door testing as well as a scanner for back door testing to determine what the problem is.

 

I had the same thing happen today on my 2009 TCH with only 7500 miles. Read the code via a fairly new Scan Gauge and got the same invalid code -- P000. Cancelled the code, so will see if it reappears tomorrow on the commute. If it does, will then take to the dealer.

 

Guys,

You need to have someone read the code with factory scanner or something like the Modis, Verus or Solus Pro series from Snap-on. Every time you "clear" what you think is an invalid code, you are deleting the factory specific codes to let you know what is going on. Yes, it will cost you to hook up a scanner but you can find out what is going on to throw the codes.

The cheaper scanners (less than $500 or so) read the generic OBDII codes and not the factory codes which is the reason for the strange numbers you are getting. If you were near the Chattanooga area, I would read them for you but I think you are a little further away....

 

Yup, just a little too far from the Chattanooga area (in the Denver area). I suspect I'll probably have the code back again tomorrow, so probably will reappear and won't clear this time until the dealer has a chance to review. For some reason I was thinking that even though I cleared the code, it still remained in some history file and can still be retrieved. Guess that's not true. Thanks for the additional info.

 

I wonder if 'free Autozone scan' also uses the under $500 scanner.