I have a 2010 FEH and would like to install a port for an external "jump start" charger in the car (in the event that the battery goes flat at some point in the future, I want to have the car "ready to go" for an external charger, rather than having to spend several days waiting for parts). Additionally, I'm curious about the feasibility of using this same HV tap for driving a high-bus voltage inverter for around a kW or so of power. It appears that the traction battery is more than capable of delivering a kW or two continuously (rough estimates based on FORScan current values indicate that the AC compressor draws 6A at 300V) - a friend of mine mentioned that the use of modified commercial UPS inverters for adding a high-power outlet to Priuses, and I have enough switching HV electronics experience to build an inverter myself anyhow.

This thread (https://electricvehicleforums.com/fo...ry-jump-31056/) indicates the existence of a set of "vestigial" connectors that appear to be wired directly to the main HV terminals on the battery. Does anyone know:

• whether their position in the battery would admit adding an external passthrough available when the battery in installed, with the cover on (or would they require removal of the cover and partial removal of the battery to access, as detailed in the post?) Are there any safe locations to drill through the case to bring them out?
• whether there are any other accessible locations to access HV traction power without significantly compromising the system (obviously, just splicing into the HV harnesses is a terrible idea, but if a standard connector is used in an accessible location, I think building an additional "splitter" harness would be feasible)
• if there are additional concerns to attaching a parasitic load to the battery with key on, engine "running" (will the car freak out if power is not drawn from an expected location, e.g by bypassing a current monitoring shunt somewhere?)
• what gauge wire the vestigial connectors are (would a safe current of 6-8A be feasible?)

Just trying to learn more about the battery system, as I like the car, my battery appears to be in good condition, and I'd like to keep it in such condition for as long as possible.

(As an addendum: has anyone significantly investigated either the BMS or protocols used by the BCM to communicate with the rest of the car? A long-term hobby project of mine might be the preparation of an LFP-based replacement battery, with a custom BMS, that allows for improved performance without risking the use of an NiMH-based BMS on a totally different battery chemistry.)

 

1. The only way to access these is by opening the battery.
2. In the jump start thread, I include pictures of the terminals on the battery side of the relay. This is really your only option.
3. I don't know, but I don't think so.
4. Not sure, but they are way too thin to support any significant current. I would hesitate to use > 1A.

Keep in mind this battery is only 1.65kWh WHEN NEW - about the same as a 130Ah 12V battery. You're not getting much for the effort.

 

What about drawing power from near the AC compressor (I know it has its own set of HV lines) or DC-DC converter? My plan would be to try and see if the stock connectors are sold elsewhere (e.g are they a stocked TE Connectivity product, or something custom for Ford?) and build a harness for it. I don't plan to use the battery to store energy - rather, the car is essentially a high-power, quiet, inverter generator, and for camping or emergency use it would be nice to be able to draw power from it, much like modern electric cars are capable of.

 

I don't know the specs on the A/C. The Prius is three phase 200VAC.

If you're looking for a quiet inverter generator for emergency use, go simple. It has a 100A DC-DC converter meaning a 1-2kW inverter (1kW continuous, 2kW for short periods) is practical and as simple as connecting to the 12V.


If you insist on HV, there's another potential pick up of the HV.

 

Hmm, good point. There's a big efficiency hit with going from HVDC to LVDC to AC again, but since I'd prefer to keep the vehicle working it's probably worth it anyway. Plus, efficiency isn't that fantastic to begin with - the car itself seems to draw like 400W even with all the accessories "off" (about 1A from the traction motor). I'll update this post with whatever I end up doing.

P.S - do you know where the coaxial cable for the antenna is routed, and if it's accessible anywhere from the outside? Specifically, I'd like to get electrical access to both the base of the existing FM receive antenna and the connector on the back of the head unit.

 

sorry, I don't.