Dang, everything was fine then at 35,000 miles I started getting daily, or twice daily re cal's....wonderful....took it in, asked them to check the 12 v battery specifially, they said it is fine under a cranking load (4.5 years old)....so, I asked what we were going to do about the recals. I also told them my gas mileage has been going down, I did not know if it was the tires or the fact that I was having so many re cal's...they had me bring in back 2 weeks later so they could keep it overnight and "check it out" well, seems the 12v had a bad cell that did not show up until it was put under a constant load, like sitting at a stoplight stereo and a/c cranked up and the engine off.
Here is their explination, cold cranking is different than load testing (ok) so, under load the 12v cant handle the demand so, it pulls more off the 158v that triggers the computer that somehing is wrong, it does a recal just to check it out, by that time the engine is running and it is ok.

Well that kind of makes sense to me. They installed a new battery, I thought it was kind of expensive but I did not want an aftermarket battery for them to place blame on, they also did another software update (I did have the recall update done) there is no software id number on the invoice, only "software update"
I have driven 2 weeks now including a 300+ mile road trip, I have had 1 very soft re-cal 3 bars then 5 bars within a couple of miles...other than that the re-cals are gone BUT it has not been all that hot and I have not used the a/c much.
My mileage has gone up some, the current tank shows more promise at 48 mpg for the first 100 miles but we all know how fast that can change.
My love affair with alternate vehicles has not ended, I think Honda screwed the pooch on this, I think they know what is wrong and don't want to spend the money to fix it....I think they are destroying their rep...kinda sad..
I am still trying to buy a Volt, that is a daunting experience as well, I think I am on the wait list but I am not sure, The Dealer told me I have the next allocation but won't return my call ....
I found a local dealer that had a Leaf in stock available for delivery, they told me it was red when I called, it turned out to be silver....but, I drove the tester anyway, came really close to pulling the trigger but, had a last minute bout of range anxity....for instance I could not take a 300 mile road trip unless I rented a car...kinda wipes out the fuel savings...I really could not even go to the next city over without a lot of anxity as it is about 40 miles each way....I hate to dump the Honda, I do like the car, but, I am afraid to keep it now...I will post any future changes.

 

Sheesh, I wish I had 35K miles on my 07 HCH2... just turned over 120K miles. I just posted about my 12V battery experience in another thread. Wouldn't be surprised if my OEM had a bad cell or problem. I have recal's every day. I can tell you it's daily routine and how every start of the car will turn out on the SoC bars. While I am truly frustrated with the battery issues, I do love the car in itself. I really can't complain since even with the problems, I still can get 43-46mpg and over 120,000 miles, I have saved a lot of $$ on gas. I also don't have an option to look for another vehicle - my credit sucks big time, and I still owe $8,100 on my HCHII (only 18 payments left!).

I back you completely that Honda sucks ***** with how they've handled the battery problems and they have lost me as a repeat customer... but if you're getting over 45mpg, and don't drive that much (35K in 4½ years?!?), and like the car in all other aspects (comfort, ride, style, etc), then keep it until the hybrid battery pack goes kaput. You know your HCHII, know when the recals will happen, and can adjust for it. Aside from a pure electric (which you're having anxiety over the range) or a Prius, just about any other car has a sticker of 35mpg or less (highway) which in reality equals 30-32. If you look at it as you have a Honda Civic with flashy dash lights that gets better mpg than 95% of the cars on the road, then it can still put a smile on your face and keep the $$ in your pocket rather than the money-hungry oil tycoons.

 

A friend on another forum has a Volt. He lives in Chicago and flew to New York to pick it up. Didn't get great mileage on the trip home (mid thirties) since the range is about 40 miles on the battery.

Since then, he has put 6,500 miles on the car and used 12.1 gallons of gas!

He has a commute that allows him to use only the battery and he charges after midnight to get the lowest rates. Cost for electricity is about $1.00 per day. That comes to about $230 in six months--$180 electric and $50 gas.

 

Those are very impressive numbers, and for most people, a 40 mile range per charge is plenty for everyday use... I myself drive 40 miles each way to work and about 10 incidental miles running errands, so about 100 miles a day. If I could have a charging station at work I would only use gas for about 10 miles a day.

However last I heard (haven't seen for myself) the Volt has a $40,000 price tag on it which is a bit crazy! The other thing I find extremely amusing (not really, but I'd rather laugh than cry) is the 40 mile range on the battery. 40 miles? Really? Only 40 miles? In 2011 only 40 miles? In 1997 the Saturn EV-1 had an over 80 mile range on acid batteries, and over 100 mile range on the early NiMH batteries they started to use before the literal plug was pulled on the entire project! Had they continued to enhance the vehicle over the last 15 years, 1) GM would still be in business, and 2) they could easily have 300-500 miles on a full charge, and 3) have a charging infrastructure in place across the country!

So Chevy is saying we've gone backwards after 15 years and they can only provide a 40 mile range on a full charge in their "new superior car". Or maybe that was the deal they had to strike with the oil companies to make them happy so they could still pull some $$ from your pocket! Whatever the reason, they could have done so much better! But I guess it's better than saying "it will take 20 years to get this amazing fuel cell car prototype you see here to full scale consumer production". 20 years? Really? 20 years? ...

Ok, I'll shutup now

 

For 2012 the price of a Volt is $40,000 less a tax credit of $7,500 for a price of $32,500. Add taxes and dealer fees depending on the state.

Both the Volt and the Nissan Leaf are limited to about a 40 mile range on the battery. The Volt does have the gas backup which provides a measure of safety.

My 2007 HCHII is getting 43 mpg with non LRR tires and a bad battery. So I am not unhappy with it. The biggest problem is a lack of assist when you need it.

 

At low or no load a Pb-acid battery can display a fine terminal voltage. When you put a high load on it, as when you start it, that voltage will drop in proportion to: 1st the internal resistance; & 2nd (more important in your case) the amount of active material exposed inside the battery.

So if you've had the battery for several years and plates are sulfated, or the water level has dropped below the plate tops (& then hopefully refilled), your heavy load voltage will drop precipitously since less surface area is available to carry the load.

Sounds like to me like your battery has sulfated plates in at least one cell.

The old battery was unrecoverable. A couple of things you need to do with the new battery. Right after purchase check cell levels and even them up. If you're comfortable with this do it with their acid (this will put the same amount of acid in all cells). Otherwise use just water. Using their acid isn't so important since you'll probably never take the battery down close to 0% capacity.

Go buy the purest water you can buy. Don't accept "Ozonated" water, it kills batteries. If you can get it use pharmaceutical grade water or go buy some water at a chemical store. Even tap water is better than "ozonated."

I have a 92 Suburban. My last battery was a 75 month NAPA battery. It went 92 months with the above care & feeding, to include routine cold starts in -20 to -30ºF weather over the last few years. Oddly when it failed it was summertime.

 

I find it amusing that people insist on telling me how expensive the Volt is, then go out and think nothing of spending 50K on a SUV or high performance car...that is just bizzare thinking...buying the Volt fits in perfectly with my lifestyle, I drive 8 miles each way to work daily, I drive under 8K miles a year...yes, I could buy an econo box more cheaply than the Volt, but, just like the high performance car I am buying a lifestyle as well, little or no forgen oil (we are hydro/wind/solar power in my part of the country) and it is QUIET, you step on the accelerator and it moves with far more life than one dares with a hybrid, it has a nice weight and center of gravity and I like the way it looks and feels....so, thank you for your opinion on my choice, but it IS MY opinion and MY money....
Also, for the record, I did look at the Leaf it's range is 80-100 miles, not 40, I liked it a lot but I could not have it as my only car, I do sometmes drive more than 50 miles each way to places.
The Battery installed appears to be a sealed affair....I am not messing with it...it has a 3 year free replacement warranty...I hope to be rid of the Honda by then....so, bottom line....2012 Volt equpted as I want it 40,100 (no sales tax in Wa. on alt fuel vehicles) less trade in & 27,500, less tax credit est 6,300 for me, net 21,200...oh, I can afford that if it is ok with the general public :-(

 

I feel I am in a similar scenario...getting about 4 recals a day...only 38,000 miles on the car. Just dropped my car off at the dealer and they said they will look at it tomorrow.

You mentioned that the battery replacement was expensive...I am guessing they didn't care about your 80k warranty and you paid for it out of pocket?

 

no the 12 volt is not covered beyond 3 yrs, expensive is realative I paid about $110 for the battery..I thought it should not been much more than $75 it is a dinky little thing.

 

Ahhh. I thought you meant the IMA battery...I guess I didn't read close enough. Thanks for the clarification.

I wonder if a 12v replacement would help me...still on original OEM