Hey kids it's time for another episode of "What's wrong with my civic?!"

In the past 2 years, the wife and myself made a move from Mid-Michigan to Philadelphia. Lots of stop and go traffic here (and horrible drivers to boot). Recently when dropping a friend off for a doctors appointment, I started losing power and my check engine light came on. The first time that has ever happened! I lost the electric power steering in the process. I turned the car off when I dropped them off and it would not turn back on. Dead! After a tow home, these are the codes that I pulled:

• P0500
• P1166
• P0141
• P0147
• P1130
• P1298
• P1601
• P1435

After a few days of working (I bike to work, great mpg!) I just got a chance to take a part the rear seat and flip the breaker off on the IMA battery. These codes read when the battery was switched off: P1600 and P1575.

I'm guessing that it's time for a new IMA battery given that it happened all at once. The car is 17 years old with the original IMA battery in it, 15 years of the car's life being in Michigan (brrrrrr).

Side note, with the breaker switched off I was still not able to get the car to start, although I didn't completely bypass the IMA as I don't have a T30 wrench yet. The starter tried it's hardest, but nothing.... Maybe it's something else? Help!

 

Replace 12V battery. Replace all ground straps Codes across that many systems scream 12V problem or wires that have been chewed through by critters.

P1600 and P1575 are to be expected with the pack master off. The only code that suggests an IMA battery problem is P1435, sand that's not conclusive.

 

The battery is only a year old, but I will check that out. Thanks!

 

Until a battery has been load tested and confirmed to be good, it doesn't matter how old it is. You can walk out of a parts store with a brand new battery that's junk.

 

I just replaced the 12V. Nothing. I'll check the negative and the ground again, but upon initial inspection they looked fine. If it were the 12V, it seems odd that it would to die while driving without any warning. I'm also going to completely bypass the IMA later today and see if I can get this puppy started.

Thanks for the advice that you give to so many people!

 

There are additional grounds. In some of the Hondas, there is a 4th ground at the EPS unit. I do not know if that's the case with the HCH1. Visual inspection of the grounds is not reliable as they can corrode and break inside the cable shrouds.

After replacing the 12V with the ignition on, what is your battery voltage?

After replacing 12V and attempting start, what codes did you get?

 

Voltage with ignition on: 12.3V (this was after a few attempts to get it started earlier in the day)
I cleaned up the main ground that splits from the negative terminal and the voltage read the same there. It's raining, so I'll try to check out other grounds tomorrow.

Codes after replacing and trying to start (with IMA intact): P1166, P1639, P1575.

 

P1166 is A/F (O2) sensor heater circuit malfunction - probably not a no-start issue.
P1639 is MOTB Signal Circuit Malfunction
P1575 Motor Power Inverter (MPI) Module Voltage Problem

You sure P1639 isn't P1629?

At this point, you may have a wiring issue or a failed MCM. Did you inspect the engine compartment thoroughly for signs of worn or frayed cables/wires?

 

S Keith,

I just tested all of my fuses with my multimeter and found that the 10A FI-ECU fuse (under the steering wheel) was blown. Replaced it and VOILA! Car is running fine, no errors reporting. Now, what caused it to blow while driving in the first place? Trying to keep the bad boy going for a least 3 more years, when we pay off a big student loan.

Thanks for the advice on the 12V stuff. Glad to know it wasn't the IMA battery!

 

Nice find. Checking fuses is often my first instinct, but I flubbed that one.

Sometimes fuses just blow. Even a 10A fuse can't actually handle 10A continuous.