Just as an FYI, I thought I should share this interesting information from a GM tech out of oklahoma. I haven't checked into seeing if our Hybrids have this same oil filter under the oil pressure sender or not, But since we have the Active fuel management system/variable displacement engine, I'm assuming we will fall into this category.

Moral of the story, Do not use cheap engine oil, See the link below for the story.

http://www.performanceboats.com/html...ad.php?t=76350

I personally find it interesting because I have a 06 dodge charger with a 5.7 hemi and it also has the Active Fuel Management/variable displacement technology, And the recommended oil is 5W20 just so that the variable displacement technology system will work more efficiently in their engines.

Just something to keep in mind is all.

PS, The guy that says he can hear his rattle at start up in post 42, Most likely that is because he is not using a AC delco oil filter with an anti drain valve It's Very important to us a oil filter with an anti drain valve, If not, you will hear your engine rattle at start up almost every single time. My 98 GMC 1500 truck 5.7 did that until I found out about the anti drain valve in the oil filter. The noise went right away as soon as I installed the correct oil filter as a test, I did not change the oil at that time because I had just done it a few days prior, Also the dealer service writer recommended trying the new oil filter.

 

the AFM is connected to the oil pressure sender as well as the oil filter. gm recommends 5w/30 and I notice oil pressure to go up to 67psi then drops to 62 psi tops when oil is warm. I always have the oil change at my caddy dealer-hopefully they use the right filter. pureone would be best but I think they use the ac/delco brand.

 

I just dropped my Yukon off to have ALL the fluids changed out, and I do mean all from power steering to diffs etc. I do it every 2 years regardless of mileage, its cheap insurance, I think I will call them even though I have only used mobil 1 and changed oil every 3 k.

 

Oops, Hi, I hope I didn't confuse you about the two different style oil filters our engines may have.

The filter in the link I posted is going to actually be under the oil pressure sending unit itself, If it clogs up it's going to damage the lifters.

The Normal oil filter I started talking about was just from a different experience of my own, The two filters are not going to be related in this case, Sorry about that.

That link i posted is definitely must read in my opinion, I was just rambling on and on about the normal oil filter.

 

I checked the service manual and did not show another oil filter. if you can copy and paste, that would be great.

 

ive been see'n a huge pattern forming here as of late at our lil dealership and thought maybe id save some of you guys the headaches of a long teardown at the dealership and being without a vehicle. i've been doin more and more hyd roller lifters in these variable displacement engines and gm has yet to release a cause of why but i know whats doin it and how the customer can prevent it themselves and save theirselves alot of hassle and downtime.

what's goin on is that alot of these spring loaded variable displacement lifters are being starved for oil pressure and the spring loaded lifter will actually stick itself inside its own bore, then all hell breaks loose. there's a small screened filter that's actually under the oil pressure sender unit that's getting clogged up and starving 4cyls worth of lifters for oil. if you have these type of engines, do yourself a favor and next time its in the dealership, ask that they replace the valve lifter filter under the oil pressure sender. they're gna look at ya funny, most dont know its there, but make em change it before 50k and every 50k from then on out if you plan on keeping the vehicle.

another thing ive notice is a majority of the engines im doin are primarily ran on pennz or quakerstate, i mean its really cloggin these lil lifter filters up and doin some damage. ive yet to do any lifters in motors ran on castrol, mobil oils, etc.

jus a heads up, i know most folks trade their's in before this may become an issue, but if you're holding onto the vehicle till payoff and plan on keeping it for awhile after, get the lifter filter changed bout every 12th oil change or so, and the motor will live as long as the basic ls engines.

Page two,
the dealership may wanna charge ya to pull the intake to get at this filter i mentioned, its not tuff and they're sticking it to ya. i can get at the sender, remove it, run a long thin drywall screw down into the filters and pull them out without any real issue. here's you guys a pic , its not tuff to change for those that like to do stuff themselves. its tight behind the intake, not gna lie, but the intake doesnt have to be pulled to get at it, i pulled an intake once to change it and done dozens of them since without intake on the ground.


452 in this pic is what ya wanna change: Note you will have to click on link to see the diagram. I could not copy it.
http://www.performanceboats.com/html...9&d=1287761859

Page three,
not tryin to scare anyone bout these engines, they're actually pretty awesome i think, but with like any new changes to a motor, the bugs show themselves after being on highways and roads, not test tracks or dynos.

if you're not sure your's has active fuel management(aka variable displacement), you can look inside your glovebox at the rpo label inside and look for 1 of these rpo codes, if ya have it, then you've got the filter:

V8 Engine RPO: L76, L94, L99, LC9, LFA, LH6, LMG, LS4, or LY5 and some L92 engines

Page four,
Quote:
Originally Posted by dicudmore
interesting---our bulk oil is a Mobil product, but I have yet to see that as a problem. I did have one leave yesterday that developed oil consumption at 55K and after teardown found that one hole was missing a compression ring. Sealed pretty good for 50K+ that way.

lol that's crazy! i've also came up with a repair for newer trucks with high oil consumption issues that gm says needs lifters replaced due to over aggressive lifters. they think its putting to much oil up top, i thought different and i was right. submitted a bulletin repair to my d.m. last week on that issue and even handed him a v/cover i done my lil fix too, he looked at me and said "i luv u mannn"

if any gm techs read this and yall have seen 07 or up trucks pulling alot of oil into the pcv system and burning it(generally will use a qt in 500miles), give me a hollar and ill tell ya how to fix it without yankin the heads and replacing lifters. if you'll take a step back, flush your mind of what gm techical asst tells ya, look at the pcv system as you would evacuating a a/c system with water in it and it'll all make sense to ya how the oil gets into the pcv system.

here's the theory i submitted to gm bout the issue:

ok, your pulling metered vaccum on the valve cover into the lil slotted baffle inside the lh v/c right? well since that baffle is so long and barely vented at the end with the pcv orifice in it, it creates a higher vaccum in the baffle than in the actual top of head. now if this was a a/c system with water in it, where would the water go if the system has say 28hg in it but at the service ports we were pulling 30hg? of course the water is gonna flow/boil up and to the 30hg area, same thing applies here to the oil in the v/c if you'll look where the pcv ports thru the v/c there's a tiny hole in the baffle, you've gotta add 2 more and enlarge them twice the size as the factory hole, this equals out what hg is in the baffle compared to the top of head, and no longer will the oil travel up and into the pcv system ive fixed 5 trucks so far with my lil baffle mod look for gm to release a different v/cover design soon with my lil mod added

Page five,
Quote:
Originally Posted by hotbo
my 2010 crewcab 5.3 as of date has 4935 and hasn't used a drop yetif it starts im killing me some GMthen calling you

lol i bet you'll be fine, if it aint using it now it aint gna these trucks burning alot of oil are doin it since new. its easy to tell if my fix will cure if it does ever start using oil like mad, jus pull the lil pcv tube off the v/c and intake, and if there's liquid oil in it, time for v/c mod! i saw a tech here do lifters on 1 at 5k miles and it kept right on using oil, he saw a gm bulletin bout leaking baffles in the cover and replaced the cover, still done it, so i played with that old cover alil till i figured out what was crackalating. he(tech) lives 75miles from the dealership and each time he drove the truck home itd use almost 1/2 a qt, then i handed him the v/c and told him to give it a go, had nothing else to loose and it stopped burnin oil sometimes thinkin too much pays off lmao

Page six,
Attention guys.....ONLY 2007+ vehicles with DOD (displacement on demand). No corvettes, no 99-early 2007 trucks.

I thought id bring this thread back up and mention gm released a new lifter filter, 15% more filtering surface area, so we'll see how they work. gm p# 12585328

doin another set of stuck afm lifters right now, getting good at em tho, have it down to replaceing all 16 in less than 2hrs starting the job to starting the motor warranty pay aint bad on em, pays 9.7hrs labor, takes 2 when you get good at em

Page 7seven,
Quote:
Originally Posted by havasu1
Dang, found the LMG code in my glove compartment on an 07 Yukon 5.3 that just hit 50k miles (no problem with the motor by the way for all those mile). Might try this fix myself. I do all my repairs on my buggies over the years. I hope it is as easy as the VTECH screen replacement on a Honda.

it is, jus get yourself a 3inch long drywall screw with aggressive threads, either borrow a oil pressure sender socket or buy 1, and soon as ya got that out jus finger screw the drywall screw down into the filter and pull it out. pm me your cell # and ill send you a pick of the filter i pulled out not 2hrs ago, 42k on it and plumb stopped up, got lucky and caught it before lifters got hammered, already done a set of those tday too, but hey its money.

its pretty tight back behind the intake, not sure if you can get pliers back there or not, a cresent would work but it'd have to be a big 1 for the jaws to open wide nuff to get on the oil pressure sender.

fyi, both trucks tday, ran on pennz, i called the pennz oil change place across the road tday and informed him of it and he said i was full of **** oh well i guess his oil changer degree trumps my 15yrs of nonstop training

Page eight,
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sold honda.bought hondo
Ya...but now that the real fix is out.....it might be a good idea for those who have had or might have the lifters replaced to make sure the lifters are actually replaced...and....the filter replaced.....

i can tell you from personal experience that if it stuck a afm lifter due to a clogged afm filter, it wont go another few miles before sticking the rest, been there and done that. i put a set in on the rh bank before i knew bout the lifter filter, got it done in less than an hr start to finish, was all happy n **** cuz i was killing the warranty book time on it, drove it down the highway and **** it all to hell, the lh bank stuck a lifter, that's when i knew something oil gallery related was doin the lifters in, so i checked and found it had a filter, pulled it out and sure nuff was totalllly clogged. lessoned learned from then on and now i jus recommend it to my customers.

fyi for you peeps with afm engines still under warranty, i can tell you what to say to get it replaced for free under warranty jus mention this phrase next trip into the dealer "for some reason my oil pressure gauge is acting funny", there's a new bulletin out for the filter getting clogged and causing oil sender units to read wrong or irratic and filter replacement is the repair

Page nine,
Quote:
Originally Posted by IMPATIENT 1
id bet these same motors im repairing for lifter filters clogged also have bunch of it in the pan too, but i havent pulled a pan to check yet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Beer:30
Well, if it's in the end of a flow galley, it's other places. Gravity being what it is - I'd bet your 103% right.


IMPATIENT 1, "the GM tech said back", yeah jus hate knowing that too tho, its not like gm or a customer will pay to yank the pan and clean it either, which i know needs to be done if the lifter filter has gotten clogged. so far most of the stuck lifters ive done has been under warranty, but i will work it in the estimate to pull the pan and clean if i get any customer pay.

 

Good stuff here. Also add newest hybrid RPO (2010+); LZ1. Different injectors and manifold compared to LFA, but guts are the same.

 

this is the 452 which is just below the oil sensor at the back of the V8 block top. that is why synthetic oil is recommended so as not to plug this very tiny mesh of filter. it can be reached from the driver side but you have to be very flexible to even remove it. Is there a part number to buy it? please post it!

 

The OP of this information did post a new part number for this filter, It was on page six of my copy and paste.

I thought id bring this thread back up and mention gm released a new lifter filter, 15% more filtering surface area, so we'll see how they work. gm p# 12585328, See link below for filter $$$.
http://www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts/gm...-12585328.html

 

67 psi cold and 63 psi warm oil pressure is normal in these vehicles?