Installing used AC compressor
I'm told my 07 HCH needs a new AC compressor. My mechanic and I were horrified at the price and/or availability of a new one (I'm pretty new to working on hybrids). I now have a used one in good shape.
After reading a LOT of information on this and other forums, I think I know the install process (evac,, install, vacuum, charge.) and parts (compressor, o-rings, condenser, drier, maybe expansion valve) I'm willing to roll the dice a little on the used compressor, but id like know what's the best way to do my due diligence and:
thanks and blessings for whatever you can offer. |
Re: Installing used AC compressor
Get a manual and shim the clutch properly. I had to break down the old and the "new" to get the spacing right.
Use only equipment that has only been used on hybrid electric A/C compressors. New vacuum pump and new manifold gauges. |
Re: Installing used AC compressor
Originally Posted by S Keith
(Post 275586)
Get a manual and shim the clutch properly. I had to break down the old and the "new" to get the spacing right.
Use only equipment that has only been used on hybrid electric A/C compressors. New vacuum pump and new manifold gauges. Also, unfortunately there’s a huge lack of clutch/compressor rebuild kits for this model and part. I’ll need to just clean up and test what I have. I’d like to know which wire to run 12v to to test the clutch movement (there are 3 - black, white, green) I also need to know 1) how to get the oil out, and 2) how to put it back in and how much. Do you recommended any additional part replacement in the process? |
Re: Installing used AC compressor
Originally Posted by sonofray
(Post 275594)
Thank you! Are you taking about Honda service manual? (Forgive me). Are their 3rd party manuals?
Also, unfortunately there’s a huge lack of clutch/compressor rebuild kits for this model and part. I’ll need to just clean up and test what I have. I’d like to know which wire to run 12v to to test the clutch movement (there are 3 - black, white, green) I also need to know 1) how to get the oil out, and 2) how to put it back in and how much. Do you recommended any additional part replacement in the process? My compressor failed due to high resistance in the coil circuit. The compressor itself was likely still good. It was just easier and cheaper to get the complete unit, and the replacement had lower mileage. I didn't replace anything else but the compressor and re-shimmed the clutch using parts from both. I poured out the oil from the old and from the new. Poured the old oil into the new one and added a splash of the new oil into the new. The manual has the published resistance for the coil. That's more important than seeing if it will cycle with 12V applied. Even a coil in a poor state will energize. EDIT: Looks like amazon has it too: https://www.ebay.com/itm/273446362111?fits=Submodel%3AHybrid%7CModel%3ACivi c%7CMake%3AHonda&_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D 1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D2 40679%26meid%3D34aed7c0136d4e5ab503fcf1a0b2f0b9%26 pid%3D101195%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D2725338561 43%26itm%3D273446362111%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3 D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv9PairwiseWebMskuAspects V202110NoVariantSeedKnnRecallV1WithImageBatchRecal lCoreAI&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksu m%3A27344636211134aed7c0136d4e5ab503fcf1a0b2f0b9%7 Cenc%3AAQAHAAABMAcMXr%252F091BrP%252B67T259TK1Jntx 9aeN3CMQqTIyzwSCBiJ8X%252FQ%252BZk5rcfVGRnBLrU%252 B1Id%252FEaflQMElTC1yw3BlVQYpiioi1qszGfWsrgbQAzVtM n57tkgqcQJn%252BUAgaAt2qPQrOkuCv4gk5jZpTOWDKn7BbRN wKVO3oLmKz6BVtf1w74OPwkfxNfqyp4ZtSwl2snwMNRdiXcLlH z3Un9Kdn%252F3OroKfTOchQ1ttyPDbMwauBXowkBmRTx0cRA4 WqwdV8CaE6NC%252FH8MpPnb4v9H02dJxu5hQYsY%252Fdb6zM B8RG%252FmeVNdKPkIOjEkZDW7Tw0ryW7B0iOO%252BtbOtRfT qwMA%252FCXQNWQ0ZVbvT5lCifBiEhC333F983YAR%252BoltO 5de0nHtVsnfB7bxxmVYxiYydnibU%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK %7Cclp%3A2047675&epid=13008608678 |
Re: Installing used AC compressor
Originally Posted by S Keith
(Post 275595)
You can typically find a BISHKO factory manual on ebay.
My compressor failed due to high resistance in the coil circuit. The compressor itself was likely still good. It was just easier and cheaper to get the complete unit, and the replacement had lower mileage. I didn't replace anything else but the compressor and re-shimmed the clutch using parts from both. I poured out the oil from the old and from the new. Poured the old oil into the new one and added a splash of the new oil into the new. The manual has the published resistance for the coil. That's more important than seeing if it will cycle with 12V applied. Even a coil in a poor state will energize. EDIT: Looks like amazon has it I’ve got a multimeter - will that enable me to test the coil resistance? I’ve dealt with clutch/coil/pulley replacements on standard compressors, but the lack of parts and complications make this frightening. where were you able to find a good value on a replacement? Only thing I can find is junkyard (what I have) and $1000+ everywhere else. Ordering my manual (Amazon from your link), orings, condenser, expansion valves and oil today. Do you think testing the coil resistance, making sure it moves/cycles w power and getting the right amount of the right oil in it should give me a good shot? (I’m not up to testing the pressure the right way probably. I just turned the clutch manually and verified suction with my fingers) God help me… |
Re: Installing used AC compressor
Originally Posted by sonofray
(Post 275601)
I had no idea! Thanks for the links. I’m really struggling whether to give up on this car or not. I can’t pay $2500 for a new AC and this compressor thing is a bear.
I’ve got a multimeter - will that enable me to test the coil resistance? I’ve dealt with clutch/coil/pulley replacements on standard compressors, but the lack of parts and complications make this frightening. where were you able to find a good value on a replacement? Only thing I can find is junkyard (what I have) and $1000+ everywhere else. Ordering my manual (Amazon from your link), orings, condenser, expansion valves and oil today. Do you think testing the coil resistance, making sure it moves/cycles w power and getting the right amount of the right oil in it should give me a good shot? (I’m not up to testing the pressure the right way probably. I just turned the clutch manually and verified suction with my fingers) God help me… I just got one from a junkyard. I think my total repair cost was $450 including new vacuum pump, manifold gauges and consumables. I also bought like 50mL of the special compressor oil that I ultimately didn't need... I didn't bother to actuate the clutch manually. Since the compressor didn't grenade, I didn't feel compelled to replace/clean anything else. You are a lot more worried about it than I ever was. It was only the 4th compressor I'd ever done and the first hybrid. Aside from the routing of the HV wiring, it was pretty uneventful compared to a non-hybrid compressor. |
Re: Installing used AC compressor
Originally Posted by S Keith
(Post 275602)
If the multimeter can check Ohms, Ω, you're good.
I just got one from a junkyard. I think my total repair cost was $450 including new vacuum pump, manifold gauges and consumables. I also bought like 50mL of the special compressor oil that I ultimately didn't need... I didn't bother to actuate the clutch manually. Since the compressor didn't grenade, I didn't feel compelled to replace/clean anything else. You are a lot more worried about it than I ever was. It was only the 4th compressor I'd ever done and the first hybrid. Aside from the routing of the HV wiring, it was pretty uneventful compared to a non-hybrid compressor. I guess I thought activating the clutch manually (12v) would be a better test of the coil than measuring resistance. I suppose I can do both. Does the manual show how to test the resistance as well as the values it should have? also, did you just check that and the oil and install, or I think you mentioned shims? Is that just to get the pulley in the right place? (And would require some disassembly accordingly?) thanks again. I really appreciate it. |
Re: Installing used AC compressor
Originally Posted by sonofray
(Post 275608)
You’re at least giving me some hope!
I guess I thought activating the clutch manually (12v) would be a better test of the coil than measuring resistance. I suppose I can do both. Does the manual show how to test the resistance as well as the values it should have? also, did you just check that and the oil and install, or I think you mentioned shims? Is that just to get the pulley in the right place? (And would require some disassembly accordingly?) thanks again. I really appreciate it. Yes, the manual shows you how to check coil resistance. Probably worth checking both and use the lower resistance coil of the two. Yes, you'll have to check the spacing on the new one. If it's to spec, you're good. If not, you'll disassemble both clutches and move shims from old to new. It was pretty straightforward. Summary: Checked coil resistance on old and confirmed it was notably out of spec. Sourced replacement from junk yard. Checked replacement coil resistance - checked good. Checked shim distance, and it was short. Disassembled both clutches and move shims to replacement until shimmed properly. Drained oil from old compressor into container 1. Drained oil from new compressor into container 2. Filled new compressor with old oil from container 1. Added a "splash" of oil from container 2 to new compressor (it was a very small portion and based on the component capacity listings in the service manual). Installed compressor. Attached new set of manifold gauges. Evacuated with new vacuum pump. Reactivated pump again 1 hour later and 2 hours later to draw the vacuum back down as anything in the system evaporated. Confirmed it held vacuum overnight. Refilled with pure R-134a - no oils, no dyes, no sealants. Started car and filled until temp and pressure were within whatever chart I had at the time. Worked great. Note again that my old compressor was still functional, so it didn't grenade and send shrapnel or debris into the system. The refrigerant and oil was clear with no evidence of contamination. If yours has grenaded, then you have a lot of cleaning to do. New condenser and expansion valve will help. Likely also want to replace your drier. You'll want to drain each component and replace with the same amount of oil in the new one. You also said you got oil. Was it genuine Sanden SE-10Y? If not, you probably don't want to use whatever you have unless it specifically says it's compatible with SE-10Y and it's for hybrids. These things use special oil. If you use standard PAG, you will destroy the compressor. |
Re: Installing used AC compressor
This is unbelievably helpful. I can't thank you enough.
Got my Bishko manual(s) today and am actively going through the AC section. - Coil resistance checked out (oddly, I had to touch a specific part of the casing for the ground, certain areas didn't work) - Circuit continuity on the rest checks out. - As stated before the pump portion seems to be functioning in/out correctly when I manually turn the clutch (can't tell the actual pressure, but not going to worry about it) Strangely, the distance between the pulley and the armature plate is too small/not to spec, so I'll need to re-shim/increase the shims. (I'd read that the problem is usually it gets too wide over time). Getting a loaner AC Clutch Remover tool tomorrow to see what's going on inside. Condenser comes early next week, and I'll be picking up a new pump and gauge set from Harbor Freight then as well. Next week I'll be walking through your process and hopefully have my son's AC going before school starts for him! More to come... |
Re: Installing used AC compressor
Originally Posted by S Keith
(Post 275614)
As I mentioned above, it will manually activate with 12V even if the coil has high resistance. The car senses if there's excessive current to the coil and shuts it down or refuses to engage the clutch.
Yes, the manual shows you how to check coil resistance. Probably worth checking both and use the lower resistance coil of the two. Yes, you'll have to check the spacing on the new one. If it's to spec, you're good. If not, you'll disassemble both clutches and move shims from old to new. It was pretty straightforward. Summary: Checked coil resistance on old and confirmed it was notably out of spec. Sourced replacement from junk yard. Checked replacement coil resistance - checked good. Checked shim distance, and it was short. Disassembled both clutches and move shims to replacement until shimmed properly. Drained oil from old compressor into container 1. Drained oil from new compressor into container 2. Filled new compressor with old oil from container 1. Added a "splash" of oil from container 2 to new compressor (it was a very small portion and based on the component capacity listings in the service manual). Installed compressor. Attached new set of manifold gauges. Evacuated with new vacuum pump. Reactivated pump again 1 hour later and 2 hours later to draw the vacuum back down as anything in the system evaporated. Confirmed it held vacuum overnight. Refilled with pure R-134a - no oils, no dyes, no sealants. Started car and filled until temp and pressure were within whatever chart I had at the time. Worked great. Note again that my old compressor was still functional, so it didn't grenade and send shrapnel or debris into the system. The refrigerant and oil was clear with no evidence of contamination. If yours has grenaded, then you have a lot of cleaning to do. New condenser and expansion valve will help. Likely also want to replace your drier. You'll want to drain each component and replace with the same amount of oil in the new one. You also said you got oil. Was it genuine Sanden SE-10Y? If not, you probably don't want to use whatever you have unless it specifically says it's compatible with SE-10Y and it's for hybrids. These things use special oil. If you use standard PAG, you will destroy the compressor. My car is in pieces, very few things are broken (yay) and the old compressor is out. I've checked out the new (old) compressor electrically, cleaned it, and am shimming it correctly tomorrow when I pick up the shim kit I ordered (it's too tight). I've bought oil, refrigerant, o-rings, gauges and a pump, but I think I'm going to take them back and have the same shop that evac'd it charge it. Im just not confident I can do it right, and I'm not going through this again if I nuke this replacement (if this doesn't work, this car is RIP) A question I have is how best can I prepare it for charging? Especially concerning oil. I see in the service manual the amounts to add and check depending on what part is changed (capacities). For instance, it says add 50 ml for a new condenser (which I'm installing) - how do I get the oil in the condenser and/or system? Is it possible without pressurizing things? If I need to add oil to the compressor, do I just pour it in one of the ports? When the time comes, I plan on going over with the shop what I know about hybrid systems, unique oil, and the danger of cross-contamination (they'll love me). Accordingly, I suppose there's a small chance I'll be back home doing it myself after that, so I'm not returning the equipment yet. thanks again for all your input. |
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