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-   GM Hybrid Trucks, Cadillac Escalade Hybrid, Chevrolet Tahoe Hybrid & GMC Yukon Hybrid (https://electricvehicleforums.com/forums/gm-hybrid-trucks-cadillac-escalade-hybrid-chevrolet-tahoe-hybrid-gmc-yukon-hybrid-69/)
-   -   P0B3D and P0A2D (https://electricvehicleforums.com/forums/gm-hybrid-trucks-cadillac-escalade-hybrid-chevrolet-tahoe-hybrid-gmc-yukon-hybrid-69/p0b3d-p0a2d-32214/)

Tahoe_08 01-19-2020 12:57 AM

Re: P0B3D and P0A2D
 
you will get rid of the other when you fix the 0.00

BamaPaul 01-19-2020 06:37 AM

Re: P0B3D and P0A2D
 

Originally Posted by Jaime (Post 269809)

Also, please log your module voltages so we can see how they change during steady discharge/charge. Based on the 1.7V difference from Block 2 and Block 15/17, your battery pack may be due for replacement.

How do I do this?

S Keith 01-19-2020 07:52 AM

Re: P0B3D and P0A2D
 
Agree with Jaime you need to crack open the pack and confirm.

Logging: You set it up in torque pro. Go into the settings. You'll figure it out.

You already stated you know you need to replace the modules in your pack. 1.7V difference in that screen shot pretty much guarantees it.

Additional data:
Voltage taper from high at ends to low in middle
Voltage is evenly spaced between the high and the low

IMHO, 99.999% certain you need to replace all 40 modules. I don't see a point in logging a discharge other than going through the steps to attain the ability to log them.

BamaPaul 01-19-2020 11:32 AM

Re: P0B3D and P0A2D
 

Originally Posted by Jaime (Post 269809)
Next step would be to open up the battery. Inspect the sensing wire for the first block of modules. (Closest to fan) (go ahead and inspect all since you already have it open). Measure the block voltages with a multimeter. If the first one really reads 0.0V, which I find unlikely, then it would have to be dead short across 2 modules. Theres a higher probability of your sensing wire connections being corroded/damaged. Check the connector where all the sensing wires go into the battery energy control module (BECM). It may be that there is some corrosion in there.

Also, please log your module voltages so we can see how they change during steady discharge/charge. Based on the 1.7V difference from Block 2 and Block 15/17, your battery pack may be due for replacement.

Find the issue. I am repairing the connection now and I am also taking initial voltage readings vs 120 sec on a 0.3 ohm resistance. I will get the logs from torque after its all back together
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gre...4dc47978f.jpeg


S Keith 01-19-2020 01:31 PM

Re: P0B3D and P0A2D
 
What's the story with your pack? Are those nickel bus bars?

I'd save yourself the 80+ minutes of wasted effort. Your block voltages already tell the story. You need a new pack.

BamaPaul 01-19-2020 02:04 PM

Re: P0B3D and P0A2D
 

Originally Posted by S Keith (Post 269814)
What's the story with your pack? Are those nickel bus bars?

I'd save yourself the 80+ minutes of wasted effort. Your block voltages already tell the story. You need a new pack.

I assumed they were the original bus bars, they were corroded when we first got the yukon at 125k so I took them all out and cleaned them with a wire brush.

Too late on the other, I did test them as 14.4v blocks though which saved some time. Blocks 1,2,3,19, and 20 showed a 1.30-1.31v drop each after two minutes, blocks 4,5, and 18 showed 2.69v, while the remaining showed a 3.18v-3.32v drop 🤮. I'm putting it back together now.

So what's the going price at gm for a new battery? $3k? Has anyone tried the new cells on alibaba they are about $40 each and made with some of the best child labor in the world.

S Keith 01-19-2020 03:26 PM

Re: P0B3D and P0A2D
 
Must be the angle or the lighting. They don't look copper colored.

You've confirmed your entire pack is scrapped and confirmed the numbers reported in Torque Pro.

The Chinese modules are awesome if you like throwing money away on something dramatically inferior to the original that should fail in 1/4 to 1/3 the time if you're lucky. I bought and tested 5 of them, and they are truly garbage... just like the Chinese "D" cells for Honda I've tested. If you actually believe ANY of the products on Alibaba have a meaningful warranty, 1) they will try to blame your BMS for failure and 2) they will require you to ship bad modules back to them, which costs more than the modules themselves.

List on the pack is around $4K, but it seems that you can get them for around 3200 if you hunt for it. Do what Jaime did and buy 2X low mileage Prius C packs of similar year and mileage via LKQ online and spend about $2K total for something essentially as good as a new one.

BamaPaul 01-19-2020 05:37 PM

Re: P0B3D and P0A2D
 
1 Attachment(s)
I think i did the log file correctly but honestly have no clue.

BamaPaul 01-19-2020 05:39 PM

Re: P0B3D and P0A2D
 
All codes are cleared and auto stop works again. Thanks to everyone four the help. Now to find a battery.

S Keith 01-19-2020 05:54 PM

Re: P0B3D and P0A2D
 

Originally Posted by BamaPaul (Post 269818)
I think i did the log file correctly but honestly have no clue.

Nope, but now we have your exact time and location.

You have to flag the PIDs you want to log. You just logged the default time, speed and position. Recommend deletion.


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