If you have "cells" (modules is the correct term) that measure zero, set it on fire. I has more value has heat energy than as a battery.

Anything under 7.2V is absolutely, positively bad. Anything under 7.35V is VERY suspect.

 

I have spent many hours individually charging NiMH cells.

​​​​​​I have a few hobby Sky RC chargers that will do 4 cells at once including load testing.

I also have a 300V charger.

Is there a way on this forum to send a secure message? I'll let you use them.

In the end I ended up buying a core from a wrecker and swapping cells. It worked ok, however because I do a lot of heavy towing I ended up buying new lithium cells from Jack at Dr Prius and building a lithium battery in my spare battery case.

Here is a spreadsheet of my efforts to make one good battery out of 2.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...t?usp=drivesdk

 

 

did you find any of them with any capacity left?


even thou my batteries are good for now, I've been testing a hood adjar switch mod so I can tell it the hood is open and the engine stays running. honestly the truck keeps the pack soc up around 64% instead of on the 50s and it's discharges noticeable amps when taking off, like 30plus vs 7 or 8 and it feels much nicer to drive. Haven't seen much of any drop in fuel mileage but I haven't done hand math yet. Just watching the dash.


if you get them good enough to crank the engine, maybe just bypass the hood switch and drive thing. I've only got about 200miles like this, so I haven't done a post on it. but at some point I need to post up the diagram and stuff.

I think it will help alot with all these dying batteries, I've seen as high at 120amp while cranking the engine, and that's just hard on everything when the batterys are weak.

 

I have to finish putting everything back together but I charged all the modules up to 7.6v and then let them sit and balance out for a few days this week I put them in the battery but didn’t connect the bus bars to put them in series. After sitting for a week they all leveled out to about 7.54 this weekend I’m planning to finish putting everything back together and turn the key to see if we can crank. When I put the modules back in the battery I reversed the order so the batteries that were in the back of the stack are now in the front hopefully that will help stronger or less used batteries get some more use.

 

Also I cleaned and replaced the bus bars and nuts for the modules the was a lot of corrosion inside the battery it might be worth just taking the top off and doing just that at least once a year to keep the hybrid battery in good health

 

So it did turn over but didn’t start, just thought I’d update now to figure out what is missing for it to run.

 

that's a big step.

fuel and spark would be my guess. fuel pump might be dead from sitting all that time.

 

My diagnostic tool says it has over 60 psi fuel pressure but plan to disconnect a fuel line and see it push some out. Was thinking the fuel could be bad too depending on how long it was sitting. Since the hybrid battery came back to life with a little juice I’m thinking it must have sat quite a while for it to drain itself.

 

yeah it doesn't take long to turn this e10 stuff these days. usually it burns just bad enough to foul the plugs out.

having fuel pressure is a good sign atleast. by turn over do you mean is spun the engine over for about 20 secs and then shut down? most people working on them think the engine started and then died it spins so fast, it sounds like it's idling but it's just the front. motor spinning it.