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Re: HV battery pack and 12V battery discharged...how to re-charge it faster?
rperla, a few questions and suggestions:
1. Did you disconnect the 12V battery after parking your FEH for storage? This will prevent the Power Sustain Relay (PSR) from shutting down the PCM and TCM and drain your HV battery. 2. With the ignition On, run a Scan for DTC codes with your SGII. 3. In the Battery Junction Box (BJB), is the PSR which there are a total of 6 of the same relays in a row. The number 1 relay is the PSR and I suggest switching that relay with number 4 (heater pump relay) to see if it helps start your FEH. The '08 FEH may not have the same BJB and relays like my '05 FEH and the '09 FEH no longer has a PSR. Here is a photo of my '05 BJB and the relays: http://www.cleanmpg.com/photos/showp.../500/ppuser/36 There are a few more pictures on page 3 in my CMPG Photo Gallery: http://www.cleanmpg.com/photos/showg...ge/3/ppuser/36 You could also have a corroded cable from you batteries draining so check that. |
Re: HV battery pack and 12V battery discharged...how to re-charge it faster?
Originally Posted by FjordHybrid
(Post 235230)
The high voltage scangauge reading for my 08 was 84 when everything was fine and the folks at linear logic told me to use a different code and then it started reading in the 300's. I think maybe your contactors are not working or you have a popped fuse somewhere. Seems like if SOC is reading 0.0% then you would have lights in the dash telling you something is wrong like stop safely now.
I'm not sure about the SG though, to my mind that should be reading once 12v power is on. |
Re: HV battery pack and 12V battery discharged...how to re-charge it faster?
Originally Posted by stevedebi
(Post 235233)
He can't get the car started; so the lights are indeed lit, because that is the default state when starting the car. But until the engine is running I don't think the CPU will provide accurate data to the dash.
I'm not sure about the SG though, to my mind that should be reading once 12v power is on. |
Re: HV battery pack and 12V battery discharged...how to re-charge it faster?
Thanks to every one who has answered or commented regarding this post...
I will follow some of your advices or checks tomorrow...as I was scanning the FEH today...I've found several codes -but not using my Scangauge- and after i did celar most of them and re-checking, still present are "P1A10 Hybrid Powertrain control module - Battery disabled"; "P1A14 Hybrid Powertrain control module - Transmission disabled" and "P0A0A HV System interlock circuit" I forgot to mention form the beggining that "stop safely now" and the red triangle are present in the instrument panel - some guys figured out about this. ICE still not running - not even a crank! |
Re: HV battery pack and 12V battery discharged...how to re-charge it faster?
Originally Posted by FjordHybrid
(Post 235230)
The high voltage scangauge reading for my 08 was 84 when everything was fine and the folks at linear logic told me to use a different code and then it started reading in the 300's. I think maybe your contactors are not working or you have a popped fuse somewhere. Seems like if SOC is reading 0.0% then you would have lights in the dash telling you something is wrong like stop safely now.
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Re: HV battery pack and 12V battery discharged...how to re-charge it faster?
I am going to jump in here with some speculation.
Given, the "red jump start button" is just a warming circuit for the HV battery. If the HV battery is totally dead, as in 0vdc, or as you say 84vdc, then that is gonna take quite the circuit to get it up to say 200vdc. I've seen no logical place to easily get to the +/- terminals of the FEH HV batt. That for safeties sake. I've had the rare experience of being kicked by 400vdc some years ago across two fingers. Not a pleasant experience. BTW, that 84vdc is probably just a residual "float" charge with no humph behind it. Charging a +12vdc or even +24vdc batt is fairly straight forward. Building a circuit that will deliver lets say a couple amps at 330vdc long enough to get some energy into that thing is gonna be a challenge, and a safety risk. Cross the change cables on a +12vdc charger you get a pretty big spark. Cross the cables on a 330vdc battery and all hell will break loose. I'd build a very light weight circuit that would deliver maybe a couple hundred milliamps at a couple hundred volts. And do that for a couple days then try it. But, as in above, where would you connect into that thing? I wonder if ( some ) of the dealers have something? FWIW batteries like this are never never shorted. You only see where the short was, not is. I had a brief stint with some submarine batteries once. A fire hazard they were. |
Re: HV battery pack and 12V battery discharged...how to re-charge it faster?
PROBLEM SOLVED!!! ;)
The problem was a very little piece of plastic -bag or wrap- betwen the Traction Battery A (TB-A) connector and the battery pins, or what is the same, an open circuit right in the HVIPWR (High Voltage Interlock Power)...some body -in the paint workshop disconected this and left that susprise for me... I used the Service Manual PinPoint Test HJ "HV Interlock" (form 2005-2007 FEH...I have to get the 2008!) ahhhh!!!:P Engine runs at the firts try and No DTCs stored. Things I've learned: »Jump start process: it works, but if you have to do it, you better get a 12V battery charger and put it to the 12V battery during all the process (of course, I cannot say if that warms or actually charge the HV batt.) You may have to try more than twice.... »Scangauge: -»I used the other programming for TBV and could see 335V's -I named it "TBv"- before the ICE runs...but the first TBV that I programmed, still shows 84V...but I remeber it was 0V before any jumpstart process...anyway, I'll use the one that reads 330V's range...thank you FjordHybrid for the tip! -»I also programed the SCII with the rigth numbers to see the TBCM codes and clear them out, very usefull! (see post "Retrieving DTCs with the ScanGauge" http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21291) -»After ICE did run for about 10-15 mins, it shuts down and went to EV. SOC went up to 50% or more.... »PSR relay...after I remove the piece of plastic but before I try to crank the ICE -which finally runs- I switched the pos.30A "cooling fan 1 relay" with the pos.30B "power sustain relay" (pags. 217-218 Owner's manual 2008)...I can't say if have helped...but thank you GaryG...I always read your posts! Thanks a lot! |
Re: HV battery pack and 12V battery discharged...how to re-charge it faster?
Great work, thanks for the follow up, too many times these threads don't
play out to the conclusion. i guess it was the 80v that was throwing everyone off. The HV circut is accessible 2 way I know from working with the Enginer kit. One is to open the battery cover, which involves practically removing the entire case from the car, there are 4 screws that are inacessable otherwise. You could also "sneak" a narrow gauge wire past the connector housing which maybe you could use to trickle charge if you had a 350v powe source. |
Re: HV battery pack and 12V battery discharged...how to re-charge it faster?
Stevedebi- the issue I think is that they have a heater in the battery as past of the block heater setup already. So Ford chose to use the normal characteristic of a battery whereby the capacity increases with temperature. The complexity of adding a step up voltage unit to charge the battery would add to their cost. So Ford just banked on the HV battery never getting so low that it wouldn't start. I'll go see where I read the "heater thing" and follow up.
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Re: HV battery pack and 12V battery discharged...how to re-charge it faster?
To respond to subdewd and Bill Winney's posts.
The thought of designing in a constant current, lets say 5AMP, 330VDC battery charger into the FEH electronics mix is a daunting task. What the circuit does is provide a constant current, not a constant voltage, then as the battery charges it consumes less current, not less voltage. As the battery charges you turn the current down and maintain the 330VDC until you hit say less then 100 milliamps. Then you shut the circuit down thereby stopping the charging process and not cooking the battery(s). Ford has chosen to heat the battery rather then designing in such a beast. That would be my choice. But, if the 330VDC battery is fully discharged how do you get enough into it to get things going again? I'd like to know how much energy from the HV Battery it really takes to turn over the ICE to get it started. I think it does not take very much to turn the ICE over. So heating a completely discharged HV battery from say room temp, 22 degrees C to lets say 30 degrees C may be just enough to turn the ICE over to get it started. |
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